tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6766238472355180872024-02-07T04:12:36.689-08:00The Mudgee LineA blog on my layout based on the Mudgee Line of the NSWGR sometime in the late 50's early 60's and also the 70's, basically between Wallerawang and Gulgong/Dunedoo in HO scale, and maybe some other modelling contents.railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.comBlogger21125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-17148402158320689372018-04-20T22:29:00.000-07:002018-04-20T22:29:19.611-07:00 Lights, Camera, Action... Pt 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Ok,<br />
Having covered the 40 & 82 in the previous post, I'll now cover the Austrains 41 and Auscision 43, so lets jump right in.<br />
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But first, a word from our sponsors ...<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Wiring Info</span></span> <br />
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Before I start, for those that are interested, I thought I
might outline my, ummm, 'thought process' in trying to figure out what
the PCB 'wiring' diagram is so that I can figure out what to cut and what to solder to get the result I'm after , and seeing the 43 requires modification to
only one lightboard I'll use that one as the example, so here goes a
brief explanation - but be aware there are probably better ways, this is
just my way, and for those not interested then just skip to the next
section.<br />
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I start by taking a couple of photos under a light, and if needed move the PCB to get the reflection of the traces, I can then enlarge these photos as needed to see quite clearly the components and traces/tracks on the lightboard. I then draw an outline of the PCB board and then draw the various components (LEDs & Resistors) onto it, then I draw on the traces. If the
PCB has been painted (some are, some aren't) which can make the traces difficult to see, then to enable to see the traces on the PCB I
generally move the PCB under a light to see the reflection of the light
on the trace, the 2 photos below are a couple of examples of the light
reflecting off the board and thus making the traces a little more visible.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ26wYrxCsbFDIHhOeWmYGZMu6qDs16tQ5jlEq5oA7f9RSsYSoKL_ST4IJ_Yq1Q0o-qb9oe-yFi0W6qZqW-dGkaQnUurr_bfphyoqnMPAgrWth39iHu_bz5TRkwkuFr9Ss6Ucw_Ioov8k/s1600/20180415_203429+%25282%2529.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1343" data-original-width="1600" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ26wYrxCsbFDIHhOeWmYGZMu6qDs16tQ5jlEq5oA7f9RSsYSoKL_ST4IJ_Yq1Q0o-qb9oe-yFi0W6qZqW-dGkaQnUurr_bfphyoqnMPAgrWth39iHu_bz5TRkwkuFr9Ss6Ucw_Ioov8k/s200/20180415_203429+%25282%2529.jpg" width="200" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIZEdnDrKN4gVgGk6MygZFv5j-WTt83Uw4yEmj_xLaj5M7a1m1X03KMi1REvFoaYRq0t7qOZdg-V7eJVeyX5iAb5cFi8YbeCh3t1dmEFzitfdkKcVB-LDme2qiIOcQiLv0qi_0_DanrAk/s1600/20180415_203435+%25282%2529.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1499" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIZEdnDrKN4gVgGk6MygZFv5j-WTt83Uw4yEmj_xLaj5M7a1m1X03KMi1REvFoaYRq0t7qOZdg-V7eJVeyX5iAb5cFi8YbeCh3t1dmEFzitfdkKcVB-LDme2qiIOcQiLv0qi_0_DanrAk/s200/20180415_203435+%25282%2529.jpg" width="186" /></a><br />
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And
the below is a couple of sketches of the lightboard with the traces
drawn onto a piece of paper, drawing on both sides, kind of like
superimposing one surface onto the other, I generally lay the paper on say a computer screen so I can see what's been drawn on one side and then draw over the top so both sides line up - I use a pencil for this step so as to not put too much pressure and damage the computer screen. One side has the LEDS, the
other the Resistors, these drawings also show the 2 plated through holes
(A & B) and the traces I cut - please note that the right hand side drawing has been flipped so that it is in the same orientation as the left hand drawing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg0P5bsyuVxDOegEs6-MGBUIEXjtp24T1WrbhSlRhowv8LQZFXB6FR4aLaZW4TCHuASOeJjdoVIr6P6R46HU0U-QOlKtxDhY6FlFEBGNjeIWSsRpcMSXK_vznEHdus6jjjLZ6xWhXPISc/s1600/43-lightbrd003.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1129" data-original-width="1600" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg0P5bsyuVxDOegEs6-MGBUIEXjtp24T1WrbhSlRhowv8LQZFXB6FR4aLaZW4TCHuASOeJjdoVIr6P6R46HU0U-QOlKtxDhY6FlFEBGNjeIWSsRpcMSXK_vznEHdus6jjjLZ6xWhXPISc/s200/43-lightbrd003.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirUJ3xE6MUfDJrrYmwOjdnq6SyPFCOM6KnGvcXT65AY4zSCZl1AOp-9zGzWtCksrEf7pGh_tJHuVv5HXOkgvrkfiz53NH5jHbsV1g4Ck3IHoFVWjwSpcs6yVdMSlhAjVnr3lTElOZZk9Y/s1600/43-lightbrd004c_LI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1128" data-original-width="1600" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirUJ3xE6MUfDJrrYmwOjdnq6SyPFCOM6KnGvcXT65AY4zSCZl1AOp-9zGzWtCksrEf7pGh_tJHuVv5HXOkgvrkfiz53NH5jHbsV1g4Ck3IHoFVWjwSpcs6yVdMSlhAjVnr3lTElOZZk9Y/s200/43-lightbrd004c_LI.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
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Using these photos and the diagrams I then try to figure out what power
is fed to where and from what feed wire, so using the Red LED as an
example, the power comes in via the Brown wire on the Bottom Right Pad
in the drawing on the Left Hand Side, travels via a trace to a resistor,
from the resistor it goes to the plated through hole 'A' to the other
side of the board (the Right Hand side drawing) and travels via another
trace to the Red LED, from there the feed goes via another trace which joins the Red and white Marker LEDs and then a trace to the Pad (which
is cut, as indicated by the red line, as part of the modification) and
exits via the (original) yellow wire on the Bottom Left Hand Pad in the
drawing on the Right Hand Side, pretty simple really :-)<br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Austrains 41</span></span><br />
Only because 41 comes before 43.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQc29TRtsWVKTSHFRF2VO5TaMautL0u6EncSPxEpvq-7tezynQivMNScnI81Ct7IbzDRHVwyzvHsMCfKsYyEA5VL837vz7JYXPBRIkgRCcvG7VAvhQIs_0q24Cy0vMVOs8qKu7AIrnzjU/s1600/20180402_153754+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1127" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQc29TRtsWVKTSHFRF2VO5TaMautL0u6EncSPxEpvq-7tezynQivMNScnI81Ct7IbzDRHVwyzvHsMCfKsYyEA5VL837vz7JYXPBRIkgRCcvG7VAvhQIs_0q24Cy0vMVOs8qKu7AIrnzjU/s320/20180402_153754+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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First thing is to remove the body from the chassis, this done by simply removing the 2 screws near the fuel tank, and then the body simply slides off the chassis, there is no need to remove the couplers.<br />
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<b>Bogies</b> - I did not rewire as I thought the wiring looked OK - I did not think the wires to the bogies looked to thick & was fairly flexible.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjr3umXmjEg-NkkjTl6LANif3gFoLRZ9yo50sJ_89alJim7eNmjXz0zSGoQX6Pk0zhonDeJQUcVEMtDR429FiNo9AY__mJpoBw7EIJ6VS5_SM_z6HBtRvScbEunLY7y1VRoaAZGLO2Cf4/s1600/20180213_221615+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjr3umXmjEg-NkkjTl6LANif3gFoLRZ9yo50sJ_89alJim7eNmjXz0zSGoQX6Pk0zhonDeJQUcVEMtDR429FiNo9AY__mJpoBw7EIJ6VS5_SM_z6HBtRvScbEunLY7y1VRoaAZGLO2Cf4/s320/20180213_221615+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjhGwaK4jQMTvplq6z79PfzXpARJuIc-tq5-G5KO0IaXjZVEWRdtVaja_KqbbXXc4Z97h7taUUqB6TlDnvPhBKhsj8wQZztZeh3UA5q5SjrZ9YMdmT3BSYKCNLNYfbWI_lE8OEPvJx1-w/s1600/20180213_221624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjhGwaK4jQMTvplq6z79PfzXpARJuIc-tq5-G5KO0IaXjZVEWRdtVaja_KqbbXXc4Z97h7taUUqB6TlDnvPhBKhsj8wQZztZeh3UA5q5SjrZ9YMdmT3BSYKCNLNYfbWI_lE8OEPvJx1-w/s320/20180213_221624.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unmodified chassis</td></tr>
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<b>Light boards</b> - these are at either end of the chassis and I think have to be retained because the springs make contact with the light boards on the round silver pads to provide power to the headlight. They also need to be modified so the white markers can work independently to the headlights, so lets see what needs to be modified.<br />
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As mentioned there are 2 main boards on the chassis, one board has the DCC 8 pin plug, the other end just has the light connections, both boards need to be modified, the round silver pads are the pads that the springs in the body make contact with to provide power to the headlights.<br />
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The modifications consist of basically cutting traces and soldering wires to the traces.<br />
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<i><b>Board 1</b></i> <br />
I'll start with the easiest board to modify which is the board that does not have the 8 pin plug. This is simply a matter of cutting the trace as shown in the below photo of the underside of the board and soldering a wire as shown in the below photos<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWp_u2FRWHNM0vACggdDPaSApGxcKxns88KJxDeJe5b_dWXGudXpcy7iAd6uHCa4hPUM6qqEhF72IJdGWcxoCum9pJnFTm-uKMEOcfCLdPtZfrLtfsVgVDudFuYGWMHJR9jio9XuV8sLE/s1600/20180220_232842.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWp_u2FRWHNM0vACggdDPaSApGxcKxns88KJxDeJe5b_dWXGudXpcy7iAd6uHCa4hPUM6qqEhF72IJdGWcxoCum9pJnFTm-uKMEOcfCLdPtZfrLtfsVgVDudFuYGWMHJR9jio9XuV8sLE/s200/20180220_232842.jpg" width="111" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underside of lightboard showing trace and soldered wire</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4zvWia5pXH4bWs24f5c2hEXeHTgC-QiB1EJzDY_w-H3T4ZwQKbNSHVNOxvWoTO40QH7w0-99NKiOSDhpXMnFX6lIosdy2SRzweNiE2Cs2gIhEEGvgoZqQT2VgYB4hpxMBMUXhbsZZrg4/s1600/20180220_232842_LI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4zvWia5pXH4bWs24f5c2hEXeHTgC-QiB1EJzDY_w-H3T4ZwQKbNSHVNOxvWoTO40QH7w0-99NKiOSDhpXMnFX6lIosdy2SRzweNiE2Cs2gIhEEGvgoZqQT2VgYB4hpxMBMUXhbsZZrg4/s200/20180220_232842_LI.jpg" width="112" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underside of lightboard with cuts and soldered wire marked</td></tr>
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The soldered wire goes to one of the DCC decoder's function output (its the green wire soldered to Pin 3 in the photo below) and controls the white marker well, thats that board covered - pretty simple really - unfortunately the other board is a bit more involved.<br />
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<i><b>Board 2</b></i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2zm2fmrBiyrSuWM7AHu1ATjAGHNMYk1DU6qhydjPNXXl0gcUaillODXetVB9bzx7av9iwSCJOqaApku1y2V-VxaOjUQaoZm5Qk2OH7QvhQ3n-8HQmNbMs5am85nxMLK7uiM3MrINLP5Y/s1600/20180220_233406+%25282%2529_LI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="845" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2zm2fmrBiyrSuWM7AHu1ATjAGHNMYk1DU6qhydjPNXXl0gcUaillODXetVB9bzx7av9iwSCJOqaApku1y2V-VxaOjUQaoZm5Qk2OH7QvhQ3n-8HQmNbMs5am85nxMLK7uiM3MrINLP5Y/s320/20180220_233406+%25282%2529_LI.jpg" width="169" /></a></div>
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As can be seen by the above photo, to modify this board requires soldering 4 wires, as well as cutting 3 traces, they are better shown in the below photo.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-1blnm_72v2gnhexKdyxkC-YczxW07GUc44P-7TTBbblnsi_s79xthOqQb6dFnd-qeNQFJuNP9yUsPBvnUIRvT5exPz9mSN4HcbStlQboKBikQYyCp6lHZ5Z6caZVZCWQsedss8m9YH0/s1600/20180315_205920+%25284%2529_LI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1359" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-1blnm_72v2gnhexKdyxkC-YczxW07GUc44P-7TTBbblnsi_s79xthOqQb6dFnd-qeNQFJuNP9yUsPBvnUIRvT5exPz9mSN4HcbStlQboKBikQYyCp6lHZ5Z6caZVZCWQsedss8m9YH0/s320/20180315_205920+%25284%2529_LI.jpg" width="271" /></a></div>
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Though the cuts can be in undertaken in any order, I've numbered the cuts 1 to 3 for clarity<br />
<ol>
<li>Cut # 1 is next to the resistor marked R3, the cut is made on the trace between the resistor and the plated through hole that feeds power to the headlight pad on the top of the board, this cut will isolate the feed between the headlight and the white marker lights, The headlight gets its feed from the Pin 2, and the white markers get their power from the brown wire soldered to the base of resistor R3 (making sure you do not solder the cut trace back together), this wire is then connected to one of the decoder's functions outputs (F1 to F4)</li>
<li>Cut # 2 is made to the trace that comes from pin 6, this feeds the Red markers on this board and the headlight in the board (previously modified) at the other end of the model. Solder a wire (Pink in the above photo) to the base of resistor R2 (or to the cut trace as I've done), this wire is then connected to one of the decoder's functions outputs (F1 to F4) and provides power to the Red markers.</li>
<li>Cut # 3 is on the trace that come from Pin 2 of the 8
pin DCC plug and isolates the trace going back to the
interboard connector, it can probably be cut closer to where it joins
onto Pin 2, to the isolated section of this trace is soldered the
purple/violet wire which is then connected to one of the decoder's functions outputs (F1 to F4) and will power the Red markers in the other end of the model. </li>
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The next step is to solder the wire that was soldered to Board No. 1 ( the green wire in the first photo) to Pin No. 3, this will provide power to the White Markers in the other end of the model.<br />
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I've also drilled a couple of holes (about 2mm or so) as indicated in the board, these are used to feed the wires that have been soldered to the board from one side to the other, be careful when drilling these holes that you don't drill through the traces.<br />
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<b>Speakers</b> - now a decision has to be made as to what one want to do with the speaker, as I see it there are 3 options<br />
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<li>keep the existing speaker</li>
<li>replace the speaker in the same location</li>
<li>replace the speaker in a different location - probably under the roof</li>
</ol>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaFtJTDiHSCXMMYdE8w7GEzOwPn1rzhyphenhyphenGHPnrJNphUKUflCV58FClCNhVvn_PG8PzrE8_oNYR6R5tuevAtI6rdCOPuPRDQ4BQJHEL1TBWyD8GrhWr_3voySeV7MfuZceaN7hmRkhV6dOA/s1600/20180213_223540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaFtJTDiHSCXMMYdE8w7GEzOwPn1rzhyphenhyphenGHPnrJNphUKUflCV58FClCNhVvn_PG8PzrE8_oNYR6R5tuevAtI6rdCOPuPRDQ4BQJHEL1TBWyD8GrhWr_3voySeV7MfuZceaN7hmRkhV6dOA/s320/20180213_223540.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Existing speaker removed from the fuel tank and a sugarcube speaker trial fitted</td></tr>
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I thought the existing speaker was a bit low on volume , so I chose to replace the speaker in the existing location, bit of work but I'm happy with the end result. The main modification needed is to increase the space for the speaker in the existing speaker space in the fuel tank, I used a milling bit in my dremel at low speed to gently ease out the existing space into more or less a rectangular shape to suit the sugarcube speaker, I made many light passes and checked the outcome frequently until I was happy with the result that the sugarcube speaker fitted and that the fuel tank enclosure closed properly. You can either use the wires that the existing speaker uses or solder your own wires. I did not use an enclosure as the fuel tank was not closing properly because there was not enough room with the enclosure fitted , but I did manage to glue a piece of 20th (0.5mm) styrene to the face of the speaker which basically does the same job.<br />
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That just about covers the 41 class, all that remains is to re-assemble the model and enjoy.<br />
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And a couple of photos to finish with showing the end result.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5pzxvI2koJGwzS6JO0yyw1Y4p8Ms27o1dlqUobWXnElJBz1UlAgAl4ZxodXJkRQIdmv4_GMIwD-ZU25DOmY52hl_VQI7bvYM6P91sSqELknwDOW1eEo5jjm-lQifNOb65orQrr579hvA/s1600/41-HL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5pzxvI2koJGwzS6JO0yyw1Y4p8Ms27o1dlqUobWXnElJBz1UlAgAl4ZxodXJkRQIdmv4_GMIwD-ZU25DOmY52hl_VQI7bvYM6P91sSqELknwDOW1eEo5jjm-lQifNOb65orQrr579hvA/s200/41-HL.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Headlight Only</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3XqSTs3jQ-xoRMT7qVSr1zW5US6NK8iqpGL1yww0O5TocBk80KkhVeg7ctDVqyjI-19O6AnJkkb-wb9uYa0TfE9Qsc_PLHKcq0O9K1Yi7Jn85HQvbEUvU1I24adsqhPNG1iMFp2xdm8k/s1600/41-WteMkr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3XqSTs3jQ-xoRMT7qVSr1zW5US6NK8iqpGL1yww0O5TocBk80KkhVeg7ctDVqyjI-19O6AnJkkb-wb9uYa0TfE9Qsc_PLHKcq0O9K1Yi7Jn85HQvbEUvU1I24adsqhPNG1iMFp2xdm8k/s200/41-WteMkr.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Makers Only</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRcW8HjHGO3ytfxK_QNPo2zbUqyh4mZrp1GWzY1ninucPG0q5qIvLGW3MZmsSPVv_51NkAK3WIQ2hic8nGf_gaGMdQiL-7T-CI08DefKP9iiI439LiP4q4Zmyr91RzQN3U6ImOlA15Hdg/s1600/41-HL-and-WteMkr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRcW8HjHGO3ytfxK_QNPo2zbUqyh4mZrp1GWzY1ninucPG0q5qIvLGW3MZmsSPVv_51NkAK3WIQ2hic8nGf_gaGMdQiL-7T-CI08DefKP9iiI439LiP4q4Zmyr91RzQN3U6ImOlA15Hdg/s200/41-HL-and-WteMkr.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Headlight and White Markers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJW79B4xTg7lP_ixYYd8GctbSp-WiBtv7s5yNqXYsTqFSPSy1iC7BP45rVo7kFeHox_aiVr_ad3WQhexmPi4cApjA16h61pfDpvv4N2BdAI6kj4qDZpM5LesuvVc4qc7V7kN4YPcbcH0/s1600/41-RedMkr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJW79B4xTg7lP_ixYYd8GctbSp-WiBtv7s5yNqXYsTqFSPSy1iC7BP45rVo7kFeHox_aiVr_ad3WQhexmPi4cApjA16h61pfDpvv4N2BdAI6kj4qDZpM5LesuvVc4qc7V7kN4YPcbcH0/s200/41-RedMkr.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Markers Only</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Auscision 43</span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7B_lzrqdIv3r7n9ZZh5wmWyvM6Gev-Nr9o6YxKOEZ6tWghnipjmjO3NPclBWYSiRWeDvg7xsOX0GLojbiL2I_ZnNJiBpSZ4Qz0shSCR_Ok66KVMgFMhDEBTYby_Ts1iMhBGppuBAzN7E/s1600/20180402_153239+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1011" data-original-width="1600" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7B_lzrqdIv3r7n9ZZh5wmWyvM6Gev-Nr9o6YxKOEZ6tWghnipjmjO3NPclBWYSiRWeDvg7xsOX0GLojbiL2I_ZnNJiBpSZ4Qz0shSCR_Ok66KVMgFMhDEBTYby_Ts1iMhBGppuBAzN7E/s320/20180402_153239+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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OK, So now that's done lets get onto modifying the 43 to make the lights work independently.<br />
Whilst the 43 class is somewhat simpler than the 41, it still requires for some delicate soldering.<br />
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The first thing I did was to disconnect the wires that come from the
light switches in the fuel tank as I think they are not needed for DCC. <br />
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The rear marker lights need little work as the Red & White markers are individually wired and its simply a matter of connecting the right wire to the right decoder point, ie. each LED has both a Positive and a Negative wire, on my model the LEDs are wired as follows :<br />
<ul>
<li>For the White LED the White wire is the negative and the yellow wire is the positive ground</li>
<li>For the Red LED the Brown wire is the negative and the Blue wire is the positive common</li>
</ul>
So simply connect the negative wires to the respective decoder function output and the positives to the decoder function common (blue wire).<br />
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The front lights on the other hand need a bit of work, not as much as the 41, but still some work to do.<br />
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The main work on the front lights occurs in the front headlight board and is mainly just a matter of un-soldering and then re-soldering a couple of wires and cutting some traces.<br />
The first thing to do is to remove the headlight enclosure from the chassis, this is achieved by simply using a small screw driver between the enclosure and the chassis to prise the enclosure away from the chassis mine came away fairly easily, then remove the PCB/Lightboard from the enclosure, mine was held together by a couple of spots of glue. This will expose the lightboard to enable it to be worked on.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBFA74U5Hnqkmx-c44a-kWLG5RTVioaSYUijC9pNKT7Pun27sIfLMlLMyE4duqKK7SLMmAOmMmAH3-Qdhk3-Y-QFAXhwWuYkvLIBv9CMfW8HGokolEZ6jxQysXT9UGCMaCTOHHfD-qnKk/s1600/20180415_203354+%25283%2529_LI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1325" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBFA74U5Hnqkmx-c44a-kWLG5RTVioaSYUijC9pNKT7Pun27sIfLMlLMyE4duqKK7SLMmAOmMmAH3-Qdhk3-Y-QFAXhwWuYkvLIBv9CMfW8HGokolEZ6jxQysXT9UGCMaCTOHHfD-qnKk/s200/20180415_203354+%25283%2529_LI.jpg" width="165" /></a></div>
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You will have noticed that there are 4 wires to the light board, for my model the original wiring layout was :<br />
<ul>
<li>the Blue wire was the positive for the Red LED & the top White LED, </li>
<li>the Brown wire was the negative for Red LED, </li>
<li>the White wire was the negative for both White LEDs </li>
<li>the Yellow wire was the positive to the bottom White LED. </li>
</ul>
Whilst this setup does work, it is not very conducive to independent control of the lights via DCC, thus I have re-wired as below.<br />
<br />
<br />
I'll start with the back of the light board first, this is the side that has the resistor (not the LEDs), the first step is to cut the trace between the 2 resistors on the left hand side of the board as indicated in the photo below and then remove & re-solder the Yellow as shown with the wire soldered to the solder pad AND the resistor (this is done because we cut the trace from this Pad to the joined Red & White LEDs it originally went to), this will provide the negative feed to the bottom White headlight LED (the lower of the 2 Yellow coloured LEDs) . The Blue wire is soldered to the pad above the Pad the Yellow wire is soldered to.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1IJnn2HGLPRzA0xJ2jW1BDdUAYTHkCGHKFAS4DXYAS4cWLYvTeIPY1wFuGu2pUlyQmiKTNGvuaDf8od9UUXz45o5FAtJVJuZxAiQJCNE2rDa784p1Tj5YzgR6Jc3LZKF96gcxLsPdxL0/s1600/20180327_212138_001+%25282%2529_LI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1491" data-original-width="1600" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1IJnn2HGLPRzA0xJ2jW1BDdUAYTHkCGHKFAS4DXYAS4cWLYvTeIPY1wFuGu2pUlyQmiKTNGvuaDf8od9UUXz45o5FAtJVJuZxAiQJCNE2rDa784p1Tj5YzgR6Jc3LZKF96gcxLsPdxL0/s200/20180327_212138_001+%25282%2529_LI.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear of Lightboard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLh2EeQYNLndbanGw_O6_qUtgaIynrKiZ85oPd7KIaBxWhJtmo4OQK0FQ5pCkGgBc5WAvmzJyAp3gWKAr-sZn1uyvTbzrKz58V0k_jRwzHIexyO4rvNYWCRnZ9xw9WNu5t8spk-Wy_QiM/s1600/20180327_213052_001+%25282%2529_LI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1455" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLh2EeQYNLndbanGw_O6_qUtgaIynrKiZ85oPd7KIaBxWhJtmo4OQK0FQ5pCkGgBc5WAvmzJyAp3gWKAr-sZn1uyvTbzrKz58V0k_jRwzHIexyO4rvNYWCRnZ9xw9WNu5t8spk-Wy_QiM/s200/20180327_213052_001+%25282%2529_LI.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front of Lightboard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The front of the lightboard contains the LEDs, they are grouped as the Red markers LED (the clear white looking LED in the top in the right hand side above photo) then the White markers LED in the middle and the Headlight LED below that (ie.the 2 Yellow coloured LEDs).<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFvyj-_309TL5ETmgcSP9viObrnjFybrgJQ70tUwBnzPPv1ZFclTn2zoTZ1Y8mIc3_qp7XFKTyw3A-DRynaqHVmBTnThF5iLcrnvCpaqGHbKwdEFQnHD-hTyYDeX9bmsFUqaab_Xa5Zfk/s1600/20180415_203435+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1499" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFvyj-_309TL5ETmgcSP9viObrnjFybrgJQ70tUwBnzPPv1ZFclTn2zoTZ1Y8mIc3_qp7XFKTyw3A-DRynaqHVmBTnThF5iLcrnvCpaqGHbKwdEFQnHD-hTyYDeX9bmsFUqaab_Xa5Zfk/s320/20180415_203435+%25282%2529.jpg" width="299" /></a></div>
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The first thing is to cut the trace between the pad the Yellow wire is soldered to and the middle LED then, using a thin piece of wire, solder a link between the 2 Yellow LEDs, this forms the common positive connection between the 3 LEDs, the top 2 LEDs have a trace joining them and the link joins them to the bottom LED, which is connected via a trace from the Pad the blue wire is soldered to. When soldering the link wire make sure you do not short it out against the plated through hole below the lower White(Yellow) LED (its the negative feed to the bottom White LED (the headlight LED) which comes from the Yellow wire which was previously soldered to the resistor).<br />
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When testing the lights I had a fair bit of light bleed through from the markers to the headlight, and whilst not very prototypical I must admit that when the Red markers were turned on I did like the dim RED headlights - kinda looked wicked, not very real, but wicked.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo6p7np5g2bFOsCGz3xIsZakym67vkKS9qnWMFBiZu_tIeDpprm-0zSFDfceowmIsxDSMeef5WH4v4axi-HottuhO3MTt-lbGJUj5dZxQvvto1GYsHJECBGQCo6OatdN3jtrtKrOls6C0/s1600/20180331_230855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo6p7np5g2bFOsCGz3xIsZakym67vkKS9qnWMFBiZu_tIeDpprm-0zSFDfceowmIsxDSMeef5WH4v4axi-HottuhO3MTt-lbGJUj5dZxQvvto1GYsHJECBGQCo6OatdN3jtrtKrOls6C0/s200/20180331_230855.jpg" width="112" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Those wicked looking Red headlights</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
To alleviate the light bleed through I glued a small piece of alfoil in the headlight enclosure between the hole for the headlight and the markers, this was cut long enough to just touch the lightboard thus blocking out the light between the headlight & markers, making sure it did not short anything out.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicfGz9WplLXtW46EfBBb0gmRlt4VZd55OVDMTOLuN83fPRuWkaebXyIKYodfqhi400oknd7bopDG2LCK9Q3h0lMhKB-CkeeaKSO7Kl5vuBrQ7A5T1k2V2Kg4qw8QIMsWZm7DrAJPcsLqQ/s1600/20180415_203508+%25282%2529_LI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="1252" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicfGz9WplLXtW46EfBBb0gmRlt4VZd55OVDMTOLuN83fPRuWkaebXyIKYodfqhi400oknd7bopDG2LCK9Q3h0lMhKB-CkeeaKSO7Kl5vuBrQ7A5T1k2V2Kg4qw8QIMsWZm7DrAJPcsLqQ/s200/20180415_203508+%25282%2529_LI.jpg" width="183" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alfoil strip glued to the light enclosure</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There is also a piece of black tape??, behind the clear headlight pipes/casting which I think helps to stop any lightbleed through, I lost this in my model so I simply replaced it with another piece of alfoil - this seems to work OK, though if the headlight is not removed then it should not be an issue.<br />
<br />
The rest off the install was a fairly standard job, a couple of things to note though.<br />
I did not use a 21 pin decoder, mainly because I had a 'normal' decoder handy <br />
Firstly I used the existing Auscision electrical board as a base to put the DCC decoder onto. I stripped the Auscision board of all it's electrical components, including the 21 pin plug but did not interfere with the traces running from one end to the other so I could use them for the common positive and the track left & right between the 2 ends. <br />
I installed a platform above the front bogie made from some scrap 20th styrene for the capacitor to attach to<br />
I used an iPhone 6 speaker to see what it sounded like, and whilst I do like it, I think the sound is not really any different to the sound from the sugarcube speakers used in the 40, 41 & 82 installations described previously.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXrfd2mzsoLdnS851IT6YZR5sxyd2veEHJfpD3xr9qIijkizHhMj-WHI-pEq78ubZ8GwOKj_Hy4kBLzfEg6Ib2gYaay81T1U2FWhbEqtjfJHnEWURczBS03oV-Y1W4M8WdsizDWTKiYUU/s1600/20180419_214616+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="452" data-original-width="1600" height="90" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXrfd2mzsoLdnS851IT6YZR5sxyd2veEHJfpD3xr9qIijkizHhMj-WHI-pEq78ubZ8GwOKj_Hy4kBLzfEg6Ib2gYaay81T1U2FWhbEqtjfJHnEWURczBS03oV-Y1W4M8WdsizDWTKiYUU/s320/20180419_214616+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">DCC Decoder etc in Auscision 43 class</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I think that just about covers it, and for me it gives me what I'm after.<br />
<br />
So a couple of photos showing the lights.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisR5hPIAqchDH2pXCfYKa7vkcx9vFGBS92RLYMcuv8bRU8NYorBqKmxh34ANGXas-6vvItytaFNVIFKhoDCmVOd8rI90A8LUwZkc1C5-0UZ4zKEML5SwtvPxRC0gmj13YdMv1dwl_w5Ys/s1600/20180402_153239+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1011" data-original-width="1600" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisR5hPIAqchDH2pXCfYKa7vkcx9vFGBS92RLYMcuv8bRU8NYorBqKmxh34ANGXas-6vvItytaFNVIFKhoDCmVOd8rI90A8LUwZkc1C5-0UZ4zKEML5SwtvPxRC0gmj13YdMv1dwl_w5Ys/s320/20180402_153239+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Markers Only</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsJrAK2e9EgokVTGovNHNTOHUH4s14FrCAPaK8XdisBcppiKjdzgpbzLY3KueHQ4i6E8gcJjwEG6VXmev8Fn1-L-SI6Qx7YDq-s4bpM0J3CGNtcKR5fssrvT3SoDbsjHqht6OGa4bjf5Q/s1600/20180331_230835.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsJrAK2e9EgokVTGovNHNTOHUH4s14FrCAPaK8XdisBcppiKjdzgpbzLY3KueHQ4i6E8gcJjwEG6VXmev8Fn1-L-SI6Qx7YDq-s4bpM0J3CGNtcKR5fssrvT3SoDbsjHqht6OGa4bjf5Q/s320/20180331_230835.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Markers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYiwecD6h2LiDET0usN2muC-024Z7qcEUV_u6ATC-id9szXFIlInQsQBVaQh99-m3NtAP5N_SQQlDFJBAqTFcUbUjDXB0C5tv-fWIeg7qRRoiyhQgYIxAg1yN4UuTHJ_no7B39ErYXHFw/s1600/20180331_230921.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYiwecD6h2LiDET0usN2muC-024Z7qcEUV_u6ATC-id9szXFIlInQsQBVaQh99-m3NtAP5N_SQQlDFJBAqTFcUbUjDXB0C5tv-fWIeg7qRRoiyhQgYIxAg1yN4UuTHJ_no7B39ErYXHFw/s320/20180331_230921.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Headlights Only</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirNzqzUr09ynS3AGgxBDsky9ujCWkvkzmkvIp8AFDm7IhK69d4Ooj3J-6MBxNJ0RqPoJT1ztndYfHl7APRDINomqaP_xBR3_l2CfyGprqVxwkZVKpUcl8-3uFCkrv6JmgpUIElhm337ts/s1600/20180331_230928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirNzqzUr09ynS3AGgxBDsky9ujCWkvkzmkvIp8AFDm7IhK69d4Ooj3J-6MBxNJ0RqPoJT1ztndYfHl7APRDINomqaP_xBR3_l2CfyGprqVxwkZVKpUcl8-3uFCkrv6JmgpUIElhm337ts/s320/20180331_230928.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Headlights and white markers</td></tr>
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<br />railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-31592738909568951472018-04-07T17:07:00.000-07:002018-04-07T17:07:08.502-07:00Lights, Camera, Action...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">T</span></span>hose that know me know that I have a fascination with lights, be they the city lights (especially when seen from a plane) fireworks etc, or in a model, so since the last post and my daughter's wedding (see last post) I've had a bit of fun with fitting independently controlled marker lights, so I thought I'd write a small post or 2 on how I setup the marker lights to work independently to the headlights for a few different models.<br />
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The models in question are the, the Eureka 40, Austrains 41, Auscision 43 and the On Track 82.<br />
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It all started with a mate, Craig Hill, who split the headlight from the white marker lights in the Eureka 40 and showed me what he did to achieve that which gave me the inspiration to have a go, so the 40 class is the first one I'll start with, and bar the 82 is probably the easiest to achieve so lets start with that one.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">The Eureka 40 Class</span></span><br />
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The first thing changed is the wiring to the bogies, a mate (Peter Baron) mentioned that he replaced the wire to the bogies of his 40 class as he thought they where a bit thick & stiff and seemed to affect the swing of the bogies, Peter did say that once he changed the bogie wiring that the model seemed to track better, good enough for me and its simply a matter of carefully using a soldering iron and removing the existing wire and soldering in the new thinner, more flexible wire.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5KdIBGDRCHedLGZCk023dBbhcyStb1deJY9pOFVSmy6VRz67V9eaLA2iQfs2XrgCNQ6MUrk8Ku5q1wN5P9gEjMOLGuiG7c33m0Ye89DkNu2MW-0xjXriU8-fzKNJOwKsNRi-lLLo9mnk/s1600/40Bogie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5KdIBGDRCHedLGZCk023dBbhcyStb1deJY9pOFVSmy6VRz67V9eaLA2iQfs2XrgCNQ6MUrk8Ku5q1wN5P9gEjMOLGuiG7c33m0Ye89DkNu2MW-0xjXriU8-fzKNJOwKsNRi-lLLo9mnk/s320/40Bogie.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">new thinner wires in place and old thicker replaced wires in view, the difference in size is pretty obvious </td></tr>
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The Eureka 40 has the lights controlled by 3 wires going to the light boards at either end, it's a (relatively) simple matter of cutting one of the traces on the light board(s) that connects the white marker lights to the headlight, thus isolating the head light from the white marker lights and soldering an extra wire to power the now isolated Headlight.<br />
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First up is a photo of the unmodified lightboard from both the front and the rear, the modification is fairly simple and is outlined in the following set of photos.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzsF51uORsbS0cU0KOOA2rpEidi-fFkaLCTBMDUr6jRhY-6c_gY02h7aMfZeSjw-jvXTPuKCHHCatTYAb9K3rNuFsfIbsrlFkCFWWEiPXeYgDIS9sZe-mV1-t-uDe-xvBlMikrHlAoyrc/s1600/40-lightboard-orig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1600" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzsF51uORsbS0cU0KOOA2rpEidi-fFkaLCTBMDUr6jRhY-6c_gY02h7aMfZeSjw-jvXTPuKCHHCatTYAb9K3rNuFsfIbsrlFkCFWWEiPXeYgDIS9sZe-mV1-t-uDe-xvBlMikrHlAoyrc/s200/40-lightboard-orig.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front view of unmodified lightboard</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_IqHnu0By4DfZoYA9i6oduH9nSi05d5vEiOh3JoNvORZJIfUBl0x9GdN1-pYZUdqVotCJZRrPHlInXwrFNbnNhv4-SmKIgFzby2XumMKIIxFStvgA8A4yWWvUIgnv1YZPM9LYHTCYdHU/s1600/40-lightboard-rear-orig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1247" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_IqHnu0By4DfZoYA9i6oduH9nSi05d5vEiOh3JoNvORZJIfUBl0x9GdN1-pYZUdqVotCJZRrPHlInXwrFNbnNhv4-SmKIgFzby2XumMKIIxFStvgA8A4yWWvUIgnv1YZPM9LYHTCYdHU/s200/40-lightboard-rear-orig.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear view of lightboard, not particularly impressed with the colour code of the wiring</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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The first two photos above show an unmodified lightboard, the trace that needs to be cut is on the front of the lightboard between 'P6' and LED 'L3' and the extra wire is fed through the hole above LED 'L3' and soldered to the cut trace feeding LED 'L3'<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk1uBuA8KmSPMH1RN8OyKepLtvRQ1C96qzgxP56yHs-WeNBVi3nlgceH4S0hDM9dMH2MzUwJyqlNZfKPAKxvkOVX8XYo4RWSmEZNKsY6aQvEDKxnZ9u6Dt24SkSd-1vwQIGqZxrPQ4YE4/s1600/40-Light-Board-Rear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="901" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk1uBuA8KmSPMH1RN8OyKepLtvRQ1C96qzgxP56yHs-WeNBVi3nlgceH4S0hDM9dMH2MzUwJyqlNZfKPAKxvkOVX8XYo4RWSmEZNKsY6aQvEDKxnZ9u6Dt24SkSd-1vwQIGqZxrPQ4YE4/s200/40-Light-Board-Rear.jpg" width="112" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear Of lightboard showing new wire (white)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBMK1F4xKBWuZkNtEiEzSH074RaPhM5Q_eyoAG9iTZuCqtAI1DX8FHP_FDTJfHFOL2_5QlQjswGMJ9xVICOTxNgDL-gSgMODqqvA0r7XtWu1y6yGxk04F-leWsu7omr7VtcPdMeB6IPsc/s1600/40-Light-Board-Front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1302" data-original-width="1071" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBMK1F4xKBWuZkNtEiEzSH074RaPhM5Q_eyoAG9iTZuCqtAI1DX8FHP_FDTJfHFOL2_5QlQjswGMJ9xVICOTxNgDL-gSgMODqqvA0r7XtWu1y6yGxk04F-leWsu7omr7VtcPdMeB6IPsc/s200/40-Light-Board-Front.jpg" width="163" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where the new wire is soldered to the front of the lightboard </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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The 2 photos above show the modified lightboard and show the soldered extra wire on the front and the 4 wires from the rear with where the extra wire goes through the existing hole in the lightboard, I've also changed the wire colours to better meet the DCC 'standards', so the Blue wire is the common, the white is the new wire for the headlight, and the green & purple/violet wires are for the red & white markers<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGlYY3HREgJdku8s1MyMC0YWvAyKjEj0lNjsis6GLAmiacvS6Ev2AYxxTmzknfkF56S9aACER4KT1VwrDeKmms6dVd2YphNrhagNq3685CV_zaQhdmKiYq2O79fN8N4tZLjpnqP4y3syQ/s1600/40-Light-Board-Rear_LI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="901" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGlYY3HREgJdku8s1MyMC0YWvAyKjEj0lNjsis6GLAmiacvS6Ev2AYxxTmzknfkF56S9aACER4KT1VwrDeKmms6dVd2YphNrhagNq3685CV_zaQhdmKiYq2O79fN8N4tZLjpnqP4y3syQ/s200/40-Light-Board-Rear_LI.jpg" width="111" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear of 40 Cl Lightboard showing<br />
where extra wire feeds through</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; height: 252px; text-align: right; width: 226px;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9gjKoOF-l5C09hQT5iSwduoaO8ix9aeBUiFD_Slsi5uuSxPJYGtv3HZg3w7qYHUgVsgmCksZUQbsbDerPi7BiAQ1K7lOqzGa5UQcnXpkoBnD5f2dW3HCnQ_kNDa8gw0keymZu3SUEFuk/s1600/40-Light-Board-Front_LI+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1302" data-original-width="1070" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9gjKoOF-l5C09hQT5iSwduoaO8ix9aeBUiFD_Slsi5uuSxPJYGtv3HZg3w7qYHUgVsgmCksZUQbsbDerPi7BiAQ1K7lOqzGa5UQcnXpkoBnD5f2dW3HCnQ_kNDa8gw0keymZu3SUEFuk/s200/40-Light-Board-Front_LI+%25282%2529.jpg" width="163" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">40 Cl Lighboard showing trace to cut and where extra wire to be soldered</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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The final set of 40 class lightboard photos above have drawn on them the trace that has been cut and where the extra wire is fed through and soldered onto the front of the lightboard.<br />
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Another thing that I 'improved' on the Eureka model is that there are no reflectors behind the headlights which to me looks weird, I experimented with silver paint, chrome paint (and as a side point I found a chrome paint pen name 'Matlow' which I think is brilliant) and alfoil and settled on the alfoil as it pretty well looks the part. The alfoil came from the inside of a coffee container as its a slightly thicker material than the normal store bought alfoil, I drilled a hole (about 1 - 2 mm) and then used the domed end of a knife holder to slightly dome out the alfoil to give the shape I was after. A couple of photos of the headlight show the various methods considered.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwiYWjLJ5YMDZ56bzthcalLxITSStsxIaSFaxYzCPNd9OF1f4wQqqKw4xLqRwuffKQ7HapKRcHKDoSCqKTln2szkEzlwhDRhyphenhyphenUAtu6q_2pAEOFSkISfFFOel6wJHqvnYpXK-yJy9lWHew/s1600/40-Paint-Reflector.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwiYWjLJ5YMDZ56bzthcalLxITSStsxIaSFaxYzCPNd9OF1f4wQqqKw4xLqRwuffKQ7HapKRcHKDoSCqKTln2szkEzlwhDRhyphenhyphenUAtu6q_2pAEOFSkISfFFOel6wJHqvnYpXK-yJy9lWHew/s200/40-Paint-Reflector.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Painted reflector</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0_2RaLwNmuFQFb0cJpEhuBaB-g6zQQ9wmhqhBmuFOl9ci4aOyesWvdPSg6frqlfegnzdxtBEv9QXw0PdOnaa30da4_DZL7y-dAqjyU1Z8tUVMpcEIQxPJdI1IYIeiYZweUuKKX48NUBQ/s1600/40-No-Reflector.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1257" data-original-width="890" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0_2RaLwNmuFQFb0cJpEhuBaB-g6zQQ9wmhqhBmuFOl9ci4aOyesWvdPSg6frqlfegnzdxtBEv9QXw0PdOnaa30da4_DZL7y-dAqjyU1Z8tUVMpcEIQxPJdI1IYIeiYZweUuKKX48NUBQ/s200/40-No-Reflector.jpg" width="140" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Standard Headlight - no Reflector</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2TDnmOEsZBOdOOYlMQHgflRjRbqc41HACoGaFekMDhOiDBxdHfbGG9vJIXV95SqpdsmmTWMtHO0-bGiIeVohg90geGiQOyUJWL44QgjcbIXUV85y0jwfLhf9Nw7yhGuJTBwBjZUy9FW4/s1600/40-Alfoil-Reflector.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2TDnmOEsZBOdOOYlMQHgflRjRbqc41HACoGaFekMDhOiDBxdHfbGG9vJIXV95SqpdsmmTWMtHO0-bGiIeVohg90geGiQOyUJWL44QgjcbIXUV85y0jwfLhf9Nw7yhGuJTBwBjZUy9FW4/s200/40-Alfoil-Reflector.jpg" width="111" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alfoil reflector</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgayRlmv0yk308LbHDI-CT7um0wDGtRRUOXuJu6EGJZ_Ms_LF3PUfNlvNOWtZLBwk1Ybojon9Md-9zy-loNa4Duy3Q4N4K7DiaWsDOSr0t1Sj3A6DsOY3UJP_k02YFvqI4ed6sI7kshq08/s1600/40-Reflector.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1294" data-original-width="728" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgayRlmv0yk308LbHDI-CT7um0wDGtRRUOXuJu6EGJZ_Ms_LF3PUfNlvNOWtZLBwk1Ybojon9Md-9zy-loNa4Duy3Q4N4K7DiaWsDOSr0t1Sj3A6DsOY3UJP_k02YFvqI4ed6sI7kshq08/s320/40-Reflector.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">formed alfoil reflector</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFRdNxe8F3WdaOWkid0fJ7ua3TQHS3qF3yG_jQuGzHGciHC_We0nM32TrCnF4dY4z8QJCJ2uObBGZz3Rs_o4y6cDAigssMYmhDG4ghVOz3j0HK3dAKJ-WI-XU6zkLm2NVNA9rOmYSF6j8/s1600/20180402_154400+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="901" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFRdNxe8F3WdaOWkid0fJ7ua3TQHS3qF3yG_jQuGzHGciHC_We0nM32TrCnF4dY4z8QJCJ2uObBGZz3Rs_o4y6cDAigssMYmhDG4ghVOz3j0HK3dAKJ-WI-XU6zkLm2NVNA9rOmYSF6j8/s320/20180402_154400+%25282%2529.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">alfoil reflector and forming tool</td></tr>
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I also found out that the marker light suffer from light bleedthrough where the light that lights the markers bleed through the body and marker light casting, this is visible in the below photo - not a very clear photo as it was taken in low light but it does show the light bleeding through.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD7H87HahJALS31lkFev6nF5Qhps19lGjhNjW-hlYnSuOuiBEV6m3U7u4PKqDl7-0E_MiZHltQVmAQGS1G15WpH2f4_rR4jtVIEO_Tegl39pIRiwh8bYHFRxzio4lrAqGBwuFogLUHSrw/s1600/40-Light-Bleed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD7H87HahJALS31lkFev6nF5Qhps19lGjhNjW-hlYnSuOuiBEV6m3U7u4PKqDl7-0E_MiZHltQVmAQGS1G15WpH2f4_rR4jtVIEO_Tegl39pIRiwh8bYHFRxzio4lrAqGBwuFogLUHSrw/s320/40-Light-Bleed.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Light bleed through at marker lights</td></tr>
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I addressed this by painting the inside of the body around the marker lights in black paint followed by a coat of silver paint, this is shown in the below photo along with the alfoil reflector, or at least a test version of it<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrK7MJCGKUqR4ai5T_-Rrt8MD6vaDHIrAWZUQShxItqNs9obhFzJMYyypBDg5mWukGyMR15cxYcsxBQW6ovooSPA7qGm-S44uyHg6yZYbPb7CODnWdFb7c_wlRYkFCSZJSrufRHGEDjiw/s1600/40-NoseInside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrK7MJCGKUqR4ai5T_-Rrt8MD6vaDHIrAWZUQShxItqNs9obhFzJMYyypBDg5mWukGyMR15cxYcsxBQW6ovooSPA7qGm-S44uyHg6yZYbPb7CODnWdFb7c_wlRYkFCSZJSrufRHGEDjiw/s320/40-NoseInside.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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this along with a couple of coats of a red/brown mix on the marker lights themselves seems to have solved that little issue as evidenced by the photo below in similar light conditions were the bleedthrough is a lot less evident.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd5hm0X-6i2L5lGCHCzVwuWQxegBRTZEZmwPUEuMHJ9iLGck-aN8d9ba8EUHsJ0mJ83ywWrPmvjVPE_xA-uNuNbggGmY44PoriKUa84SE99Rk9oEB6O6miGoaXjMmjrI6bXtbDa9tBSC0/s1600/20180311_101443.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd5hm0X-6i2L5lGCHCzVwuWQxegBRTZEZmwPUEuMHJ9iLGck-aN8d9ba8EUHsJ0mJ83ywWrPmvjVPE_xA-uNuNbggGmY44PoriKUa84SE99Rk9oEB6O6miGoaXjMmjrI6bXtbDa9tBSC0/s320/20180311_101443.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Light bleed through minimised at marker lights</td></tr>
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So the end result is a 40class that is a lot more to my liking, the markers work independently to the headlights and the headlights have reflectors behind them.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijP6-8pDPMsJowHyp3SddJNMKM4qppySdemMIbbTSRzoRwr8xdYRM3UnX4RRgsyP82yhU45ry70mL0XGHoqb3hCsIY9hlrCNzeu3V6w78X8VnbyNueWk03r_moz8Bp7opHzQ21MuRdArA/s1600/40-Reflctr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijP6-8pDPMsJowHyp3SddJNMKM4qppySdemMIbbTSRzoRwr8xdYRM3UnX4RRgsyP82yhU45ry70mL0XGHoqb3hCsIY9hlrCNzeu3V6w78X8VnbyNueWk03r_moz8Bp7opHzQ21MuRdArA/s200/40-Reflctr.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No lights showing reflector behind the headlight</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5s78koewAlVHIvsV5U5WZRVOS_3I4xnciMW0yxSvlp4FEJbcFXlV7kkrqkYyDTGNj2kR3_G6oYFLLfZckGrkRFqE2YFYlYqxvO7TMY3JxWySWGOWWFxVJQHIIKqfDc9H6nH6SeQanJfQ/s1600/40-HL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5s78koewAlVHIvsV5U5WZRVOS_3I4xnciMW0yxSvlp4FEJbcFXlV7kkrqkYyDTGNj2kR3_G6oYFLLfZckGrkRFqE2YFYlYqxvO7TMY3JxWySWGOWWFxVJQHIIKqfDc9H6nH6SeQanJfQ/s200/40-HL.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Headlight on</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggrmi0CY1I58bkIKRqVAYeBFtlMQjE0k3jty3W2Rt73NHGhjofKKFCx20TROP_haDl0blLzHLKHm8A0upDIlPQtq11XaTv4xlwVw6Y2ZMvlh2pOKodUtwdToo6JNDDbSF0Gc-_Mmmm_gQ/s1600/40-WtMk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggrmi0CY1I58bkIKRqVAYeBFtlMQjE0k3jty3W2Rt73NHGhjofKKFCx20TROP_haDl0blLzHLKHm8A0upDIlPQtq11XaTv4xlwVw6Y2ZMvlh2pOKodUtwdToo6JNDDbSF0Gc-_Mmmm_gQ/s200/40-WtMk.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Markers Only</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdBViLNdFRecs3TTYu3ZtujLGYaqgjEE8sXj7y0mURi0iC0vVekYebm_8N2exqv_CDZ_4htFZQaHVBn5ZqHBCCZuJ15MzEnyGjJeDefWZhENoOP4dc2ZKWKdeWW6u_Lovy3c59FmFdLBM/s1600/40-RedMkr2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdBViLNdFRecs3TTYu3ZtujLGYaqgjEE8sXj7y0mURi0iC0vVekYebm_8N2exqv_CDZ_4htFZQaHVBn5ZqHBCCZuJ15MzEnyGjJeDefWZhENoOP4dc2ZKWKdeWW6u_Lovy3c59FmFdLBM/s200/40-RedMkr2.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Markers Only-note slight red in headlight</td></tr>
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A couple of other things I tackled whilst working on the 40 was to install sand pipes to the bogies which are simply some .5mm brass wire bent to shape and glued in place into holes drilled into the chassis and fixing the buffers where the spring clip holding the buffer shank in place of which one was nowhere to be seen by replacing said lost spring clip with a thin piece of wire soldered to the shank, the photos below probably explain it a lot better than I can type it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGxmG5Ejq7a_nP0i_NfliNOhyphenhyphenS1klyTg9e1fvOOg_Fxe7NHIRn3bU_JFwF8SEx4zCMAMqMZXQuGyPEMvbSiUPSfZanSqbUg_jRqXGRzYOMOPGyhmezmNRMEQuUHljWZQAvdFv1YJBOT2Y/s1600/40-Buffer-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1538" data-original-width="866" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGxmG5Ejq7a_nP0i_NfliNOhyphenhyphenS1klyTg9e1fvOOg_Fxe7NHIRn3bU_JFwF8SEx4zCMAMqMZXQuGyPEMvbSiUPSfZanSqbUg_jRqXGRzYOMOPGyhmezmNRMEQuUHljWZQAvdFv1YJBOT2Y/s320/40-Buffer-b.jpg" width="179" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">using a piece of paper as a barrier to stop the solder from going where it shouldn't when soldering the thin wire to the buffer shank</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqlRD_7wywJR_8vqY6OKihU8HDOMH5u4tmUOA3J1ixPIsW7_9ggeCfzsIjVCflCbf5MqEz51MRLw8N-2PgtZ93AkGK2QaQu_kmP6HB1qxB2M1ig7nRjor1E8AQew3oYyZDz6QPAu-6eqc/s1600/40-buffer-a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="888" data-original-width="994" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqlRD_7wywJR_8vqY6OKihU8HDOMH5u4tmUOA3J1ixPIsW7_9ggeCfzsIjVCflCbf5MqEz51MRLw8N-2PgtZ93AkGK2QaQu_kmP6HB1qxB2M1ig7nRjor1E8AQew3oYyZDz6QPAu-6eqc/s200/40-buffer-a.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the wire soldered to the buffer shank before cleaning it up</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjek5pSVycmwwsgdPpmSc7TZsJ6mA2ahT8U16b6HMU7KkLgeB01x6TvCQBKcrHS8mIeB_KIK0-wvj2YlNGOGoYgJcLEcoPtpWQ840EmUOotaIkQk6DUY5ieJ33lUNIR7tR4gUJPs3SVfZ8/s1600/20180212_183610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjek5pSVycmwwsgdPpmSc7TZsJ6mA2ahT8U16b6HMU7KkLgeB01x6TvCQBKcrHS8mIeB_KIK0-wvj2YlNGOGoYgJcLEcoPtpWQ840EmUOotaIkQk6DUY5ieJ33lUNIR7tR4gUJPs3SVfZ8/s320/20180212_183610.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">test fitting of the sugarcube speaker</td></tr>
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I used a sugar cube speaker and have glued it to the existing speaker tower as indicated in the above photo where I was testing for any interference to the bogie movement, pleased to say all worked well, but the speaker is glued to the speaker support over the bogie near the radiator, not the cab bogie where this photo is.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lmBwFjl3ODKAzplyn4UJ23CVXvbIKnyfP3qxprQb4xfnLreoPvHKZipNt5dIIlI8nD9tYnSlsAbUJqYKXjDf3ErsZlx5cktjFXoUyTsRXzFYKu6tQVAMyGv7ZXJTGvvvTFxZ7jynbWw/s1600/40-SideOn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lmBwFjl3ODKAzplyn4UJ23CVXvbIKnyfP3qxprQb4xfnLreoPvHKZipNt5dIIlI8nD9tYnSlsAbUJqYKXjDf3ErsZlx5cktjFXoUyTsRXzFYKu6tQVAMyGv7ZXJTGvvvTFxZ7jynbWw/s320/40-SideOn.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">side on photo showing the sand pipes</td></tr>
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For those with an eye to detail may notice that the model sits slightly lower than a normal Eureka 40, this is courtesy of Craig who milled out the chassis for me, something which I think is well worth doing.<br />
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And now I only have to worry about weathering to finish it off.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">The On Track 82 Class </span></span><br />
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As mentioned at the beginning of this post the On Track 82 is, I think, the easiest of the 4 to separate the headlights from the markers, and if wanted to it looks like one can easily control the ditch lights separately also. This is because the lights have their own wires from the main board to the lights / lightboard and so it's simply a matter of connecting the appropriate wire to their respective output on the decoder, no need to cut wires or traces.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjowAT_OsDkOKdcBQIIoERylQkHWZjiuYklh7cgcDawbuxEFxbXNTpIxSuBGIhTetRks21H-ZVXhHhQmX6W7g6KLlwI2zfTgrycyA3GOdCYHC-zJa9B1dxxfHt9iXnQJNmOGIkuli63orM/s1600/20180402_153915.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="779" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjowAT_OsDkOKdcBQIIoERylQkHWZjiuYklh7cgcDawbuxEFxbXNTpIxSuBGIhTetRks21H-ZVXhHhQmX6W7g6KLlwI2zfTgrycyA3GOdCYHC-zJa9B1dxxfHt9iXnQJNmOGIkuli63orM/s320/20180402_153915.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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My On Track 82 has a Loksound v4 decoder loaded with the appropriate sounds. Most who have used the loksound decoders know, that in the main, they only have 4 amplified functions and the remainder are non-amplified low power logic level functions that do not have enough power to drive LEDs thus I've used some MOSFETs as power amplifiers to boost the output of the F3 & F4 logic function logic, not my idea - there is data on the web (as an example <a href="http://s374444733.websitehome.co.uk/class-31-umt/" target="_blank">This UK Website discusses MOSFETs</a>, there are others) that explains things better than I can but I'll explain what I did below, one thing to be aware of is that some MOSFETs may not work (or at least did not work for me), I originally bought some N-Channel 702-7002MOSFETs but the markers were a constant dim or bright, were I wanted On or Off (ie. not On/Dim). After doing a bit more reading I bought some <a _sp="p2060353.m2749.l2649" class="vip item-title" href="https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50Pcs-N-Channel-SOT-23-Transistor-IRLML2502-Trpbf-00Bf-Field-Effect-Mosfet-Ic/282464635996?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649" itemprop="name">N-Channel SOT-23 Transistor IRLML2502 Mosfets</a> which gave me the results I was after (ie. On/Off), I think the important thing is that the part Id. contains the letters 'IRLM' as that seems to mean they have a low draw.<br />
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As mentioned the Headlight functions, Fwd & Rvs, and Functions 1 & 2 have the capability to power LEDs without any further amplification, however Functions 3 & 4 are low power logic level outputs and do not deliver enough power to light the LEDs, I've also read that if a device (eg.LED or light globe) is connected directly to the logic level outputs that it can damage the decoder, but one can use MOSFETs to amplify the output and thus provide enough power so that the LED markers can be connected to the appropriate output. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHeOJlCwZVAbzxu5hHNkASQhDScQBo0DceLCmboWFvbFcrAmbcRyyrU2vn6Om_2L1WSU-gU-_kJf_8AnL9Wazcex3FqLUUX91T06cDRaqgLz6sX9sav9VB4A6tML_n3NWzkusDmAtzE3w/s1600/20180406_182520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="401" data-original-width="1600" height="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHeOJlCwZVAbzxu5hHNkASQhDScQBo0DceLCmboWFvbFcrAmbcRyyrU2vn6Om_2L1WSU-gU-_kJf_8AnL9Wazcex3FqLUUX91T06cDRaqgLz6sX9sav9VB4A6tML_n3NWzkusDmAtzE3w/s400/20180406_182520.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">82 with loksound 4 fitted and sugarcube speaker</td></tr>
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The above photo is just a general overall view of the interior of the 82 with the decoder and sugar cube speaker fitted. The speaker is more or less under the exhaust grille.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggbj0QkSY1MSqf1-aIyiJY-GPAYkLUcXSP6rYBJN0UwtNh4AKC9OZY9ZORcH253tOaz2ZgeYei4NxRfcFCYQYTw0GqiE9FnMVWdMEpT8oepBojRVd3o-lhYIa_O-r3LB2RwPQWBMxABGM/s1600/20180406_191947.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1060" data-original-width="1600" height="131" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggbj0QkSY1MSqf1-aIyiJY-GPAYkLUcXSP6rYBJN0UwtNh4AKC9OZY9ZORcH253tOaz2ZgeYei4NxRfcFCYQYTw0GqiE9FnMVWdMEpT8oepBojRVd3o-lhYIa_O-r3LB2RwPQWBMxABGM/s200/20180406_191947.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loksound 4 and sugarcube speaker</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggbj0QkSY1MSqf1-aIyiJY-GPAYkLUcXSP6rYBJN0UwtNh4AKC9OZY9ZORcH253tOaz2ZgeYei4NxRfcFCYQYTw0GqiE9FnMVWdMEpT8oepBojRVd3o-lhYIa_O-r3LB2RwPQWBMxABGM/s1600/20180406_191947.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5Fhoumsll6v2Kxot7uXpM0fDuLxbMjP7ujzCBSWolwyuOi9Ru-j3cGtX6UwyVjoA-d8c4dV1q5cw2j12ch-Arfr4xmD7dXU_8ZwG7I3VtuEZsmc8yygbUgQ5wwNSNiOEQ-grEBn1XnGo/s1600/20180406_192009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1205" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5Fhoumsll6v2Kxot7uXpM0fDuLxbMjP7ujzCBSWolwyuOi9Ru-j3cGtX6UwyVjoA-d8c4dV1q5cw2j12ch-Arfr4xmD7dXU_8ZwG7I3VtuEZsmc8yygbUgQ5wwNSNiOEQ-grEBn1XnGo/s200/20180406_192009.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">TCS 21 pin board</td></tr>
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The above 2 photos show the Loksound 21pin decoder, and the TCS 21pin
adapter(Part No. 21-HWM-5Pack) onto which the decoder is fitted, I cut a couple of grooves in the plastic block which supports the 21pins so that the grey and orange wires have a more or less direct route out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggmaUlacnjrugghyphenhyphenWd3-Y7MiBsSUM5EqJbEoi_fYNgugcasYyhGvKOuXBlmFA222ePgJhD7j88sokgGEPQO4DeNmwb5s0Kp55z_gphle9joAxRKpHQmloxctGA_rnzJdzN3OHwfJ8iNKY/s1600/20180406_192154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggmaUlacnjrugghyphenhyphenWd3-Y7MiBsSUM5EqJbEoi_fYNgugcasYyhGvKOuXBlmFA222ePgJhD7j88sokgGEPQO4DeNmwb5s0Kp55z_gphle9joAxRKpHQmloxctGA_rnzJdzN3OHwfJ8iNKY/s320/20180406_192154.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The photo above is of the TCS 21pin board showing both sides, the outputs for F3 & F4 are the 2
pads on the underside of TCS board(the board on the left had side), as is the ground which needs to be used to power the MOSFET (amplifiers), you may notice that there are no solder pads to solder speaker wires to, I've simply soldered them to there respective pins and run them underneath the TCS board through to the speaker as shown below, the speaker wires are the two violet wires, they are soldered to pins 9 & 10 which are next to the blanked off index pin (pin 11), but please note that the TCS board does NOT have the index pin removed and I simply cut it off, the brown wire is soldered to the pad for Aux 3, the pink wire is soldered to the pad for Aux 4 and the black wire(s) is soldered to the ground pad.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirnauhEqUeC03ztuonJiNOgNg2w8UsCG23X9jKO3639A-JtHfP7Zrjg_KJpOsxY5wd_1qvyRR3N2YXk0ZOd1QRVk3gFT_GYslz45xG2Ie20vYh46jM3kUZ23kB5CtljjaUaCEqf0BGXqo/s1600/20180406_220704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1326" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirnauhEqUeC03ztuonJiNOgNg2w8UsCG23X9jKO3639A-JtHfP7Zrjg_KJpOsxY5wd_1qvyRR3N2YXk0ZOd1QRVk3gFT_GYslz45xG2Ie20vYh46jM3kUZ23kB5CtljjaUaCEqf0BGXqo/s320/20180406_220704.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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These 3 wires (ie. the Brown Aux3, Pink Aux4 & Black Ground) are then connected to the MOSFET, one MOSFET per function, and then to their respective LED.<br />
The MOSFET has 3 connections, namely<br />
<ol>
<li>The Gate (G) to which the wire from the decoder Auxilary Pad (Pink or Brown) is soldered to</li>
<li>The Source (S) to which the wire from the decoder Ground Pad (Black) is soldered to</li>
<li>The Drain (D) from which the wire to the LED is soldered to</li>
</ol>
hopefully the following diagram shows this better than I've described it, and is showing the top of the MOSFET.<br />
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And the below photo is the Mosfet wired up (Black wire from ground pad, Pink wire from Aux 4 and Yellow wire to marker light LED - but please note that this is looking from the bottom up rather than top down)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbBNzlDA38z2YX8OhcPUgOfNvW0a70u2W_OfopNqoRBcLwJU6XAzaMl-sy3mOao7kqHr6nDTOfsul98mlzo2tJq5V6uI9e_Ohsj-_3nkJZJLlTFewFSXnogO__EzZkfqkna1zVi_yxDZc/s1600/20180323_074155+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1475" data-original-width="1600" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbBNzlDA38z2YX8OhcPUgOfNvW0a70u2W_OfopNqoRBcLwJU6XAzaMl-sy3mOao7kqHr6nDTOfsul98mlzo2tJq5V6uI9e_Ohsj-_3nkJZJLlTFewFSXnogO__EzZkfqkna1zVi_yxDZc/s320/20180323_074155+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And the end result of this little experiment is white marker lights that are separately controlled to the headlights<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwYakv6YFYzZU7nbJ3Ru4F9y899hdogtx1qAfZ2dN5KdwCQCIuQ3HwcNfdYPdTGlXHeuMQwVWAdOHIER5AbT0gkHFF9OJL0DxyKgTaInrTMMyQ-0UnzBuDNpOJ8iIpRtx60m8bvrl-GQE/s1600/20180402_153915.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="779" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwYakv6YFYzZU7nbJ3Ru4F9y899hdogtx1qAfZ2dN5KdwCQCIuQ3HwcNfdYPdTGlXHeuMQwVWAdOHIER5AbT0gkHFF9OJL0DxyKgTaInrTMMyQ-0UnzBuDNpOJ8iIpRtx60m8bvrl-GQE/s320/20180402_153915.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Headlight Only</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih7mkxcuxCrRA_gp1BbFoSVch4_RlBCNgPHv7kK-c_rqrug9bOztJuJ_ZIUKSASUup9YQtcsolE7dIxo4-UiBoUy4M8h88W4kmbAOgRdPvC0e68JYxpLRGkkvx5RHE2DWY4fU2su5b7zo/s1600/20180402_154201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="880" data-original-width="1600" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih7mkxcuxCrRA_gp1BbFoSVch4_RlBCNgPHv7kK-c_rqrug9bOztJuJ_ZIUKSASUup9YQtcsolE7dIxo4-UiBoUy4M8h88W4kmbAOgRdPvC0e68JYxpLRGkkvx5RHE2DWY4fU2su5b7zo/s320/20180402_154201.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Headlight and White Marker lights</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8hNaH1GFxjJKpsW6DEZ3BXfCWVmAghBNbL0_xiCJjQifjGid4agrj6A3aayPr9AT0i9BDexUBkJW3yb5XDVRQMW7XmmJTiN-w9x-j7AHyuuPji8Z4S7Mp4X1LALmh4kcoCioxcqXCGHw/s1600/20180402_154156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="851" data-original-width="1600" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8hNaH1GFxjJKpsW6DEZ3BXfCWVmAghBNbL0_xiCJjQifjGid4agrj6A3aayPr9AT0i9BDexUBkJW3yb5XDVRQMW7XmmJTiN-w9x-j7AHyuuPji8Z4S7Mp4X1LALmh4kcoCioxcqXCGHw/s320/20180402_154156.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Marker lights only</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3hIrq3z4RnNGcXznrkutSAOGazRMC0DCBrEMn7RJ1qCdqGUhc-JLf6JCgdq2dKAY3iD9ke3PaTsCRP4IgCGMtkIZdNHIeYLP63mQyY17gg44ZQBhHwP-DwwqkUoMOL-EhcIi5vfwzFnk/s1600/20180402_153925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="865" data-original-width="1600" height="173" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3hIrq3z4RnNGcXznrkutSAOGazRMC0DCBrEMn7RJ1qCdqGUhc-JLf6JCgdq2dKAY3iD9ke3PaTsCRP4IgCGMtkIZdNHIeYLP63mQyY17gg44ZQBhHwP-DwwqkUoMOL-EhcIi5vfwzFnk/s320/20180402_153925.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Marker lights only</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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To me, this sets off a bloody nice model.<br />
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I'll cover the 41 & 43 next time.<br />
<br />railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-34579713114072444222017-12-14T20:10:00.000-08:002017-12-14T01:24:41.058-08:00Dramas at the RoundhouseHi All, I'd like to start by wishing all a very Merry Christmas & a Happy New Year, I hope the rotund guy in Red brings you all you want, and that 2018 is a great one.<br />
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I started to write this blog post just after I had a meeting at my place way back in November 2016, and am only just finishing it off now, over a year later , I've hosted another couple of sessions of the modelling group I'm involved in since and have made minor progress on the layout. As part of getting the layout ready for a meeting I had back in November '16 I went back to the roundhouse (or at least the small part I have built of it), and I was very disappointed with what I saw, the dwarf brick walls (made from Styrene sheet and embossed Slaters brick and glued onto a 40thou base ) had warped and now had a distinct inwards lean,<br />
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partially due to the floor warping upwards at the outer edges which was probably due to not being in it's correct location and bedded down properly (it was just resting on the layout and so not held in place properly) and the floor had then over time bent/warped upwards on the edges, and even with placing the roundhouse base back into it's proper location and thus flattening the floor off, the walls still remained warped inwards.<br />
The rail in the roundhouse was initially superglued which let go, so I re-glued the rail using solvent based Kwik contact and also spiked to help stay in place, nearly 2 years later later so far so good.<br />
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I've also made a few inspection pits for Mudgee & Liverpool Locos with thanks to Jeff Mullier who posted some plans of inspections pits on facebook & whilst I did not follow the plans to the letter they were very helpful. The pits where made from 40th (1mm) Styrene sheet<br />
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and fitted into a hole cut into the plywood to suit, I cut the hole with a Makita mini circular saw which has a thin blade and which is only about 3" Dia, I bought the saw sight unseen from a friend who works for Makita & when she bought it home for me my initial reaction was ohh bugger, what have I bought, at the time I thought it was it too small and would not see much use, but boy was I wrong, it's been a very useful addition to my bunch of tools and I have used it more than I thought I would have and has been very handy. Once I fitted the inspection pit into its place I then glued the rails in place using Kwik Grip and drilled holes to drive spikes into, so the rails are glued & spiked. Whilst I've made the inspection pits for Mudgee Loco, I have yet to fit them and will be using the small Makita circular saw to cut the baseboard to fit them - sure beats using a jigsaw.<br />
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Points are now controlled by the DCC system and can be changed from the Command Station throttles or the radio throttles, and will eventually be able to be controlled from push buttons on a control panel. I use TAM Valley Quadpic servo drivers which have an inbuilt DCC decoders & they allow individual addressing numbers/Ids upto 500 and 500 upwards are for macros, unfortunately my current version of the software my DCC system uses limits accessory decoder addresses to 99 whilst the upgrade I have, but am yet to fit, will allow upto 2148 addresses so I am (temporarily) using numbers 1 to 99 to address the points but once I have upgraded the system I will assigned the 100's for staging yard points, 200's for the lower level and 300's for the upper level, I then further refine it by assigning 100 to 130 for the Wyawang stage, leaving say 150 to 180 for Liverpool stage, then for lower level 200 - 230 for Liverpool & 250 to 280 for Wyawang, then 300 to 330 for Portland, 340-370 for Mudgee & 380 - 399 for Dunedoo, well at least thats the plan.<br />
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To assist myself,and others, to figure out what address is for what point, I made a number of control panels and drew the track layout using QCAD (a freebie CAD drawing system I found on the net) and numbered each point as well as highlighting what is the 'reverse' and the 'normal' throw of the points.<br />
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The drawing has been designed so that the TAM Valley push button circuit board's LEDs basically fits into the respective leg of the turnout it controls to indicate which direction the point is thrown.<br />
This panel is for Wyawang West and cover the whole of that section (another covers the East side), and like the others I made at the time, was basically made as a temporary thing for a meeting that was being held and are not intended as the finished product, I also made a number of smaller ones (See the photos of Liverpool below) and taped them approximately in their correct position on the fascia board for individual points or small groups of points, more or less so I can get a feel for which method is preferable.<br />
The nice thing about group meetings is the feedback that one gets and a few of the guys said they much prefer the smaller diagrams as they seemed easier to follow whereas the larger ones (like Wyawang West) where too much - though the larger ones may have been OK if there where LEDs installed to show which way the points where thrown (which the final control panels will have).<br />
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The Liverpool yard has also been finished, all droppers have been soldered & servo point motors installed and tested and the yard has 'shunted' just to make sure it all works.<br />
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Portland Cement works now has a crossover within the works because when looking and thinking about how the works where to function I never liked the fact that whilst a train could come in from Portland station, the loco had no way of being released, luckily I had a couple of spare points which I installed, the track at the end of the crossover is just long enough to release a 48, I'm happy with that because I don't envisage anything larger operating on the cement branch.<br />
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So next on the agenda was to make sure all the points worked as expected and to re-set the ones that needed it, and to then run a couple of test trains around before the guys arrived on the day, I'm pleased to say it worked OK & in the main the day went fairly well, though the Powerline 48, which had previously been used to test the layout and was still on the layout but not being operated, shorted out the system & when taken off the track the loco felt very warm/hot to the touch and would not run - I dismantled the loco & tested the motor by by-passing the decoder & the motor still spins, so I guess its a decoder issue which I understand is a common problem with the Powerline 48's & their factory fitted 'decoder', I may fit a spare decoder I think I have somewhere to see if the loco still works, if it does then I may install a better decoder and if not then this may end up being a dummy loco and does make me wonder whether it's worthwhile getting Powerline locos in the future.<br />
<br />
Only thing really left now trackwise is to make the points for the Liverpool staging yard and to make the beyond Dunedoo stage, then to run the layout for a while to iron out the bugs (& I'm sure there will be some) and then I can start on the fun stuff - scenery.<br />
<br />
In the weeks after the meeting I decided to have a go at kitbashing a Walthers 'flats' building based on their Geo. Roberts Printing kit into something resembling an Abattoir, the front and one side have used the kit parts, modified by infilling the windows with brickwork, whereas the rear and the far side where scratched using Walthers bricksheet which look very nice - I quite like them, though one needs to be aware that they are very fragile & break easily, I had to revert to using a razor saw to cut the sheets as using a knife led to the sheet snapping, and not along the cut line (I've had to glue a few back together) and trying to use the score & snap method is out of the question - certainly not like any styrene I've used in the past.<br />
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<br />
Shapeways recently had a free postage & 10% off sale, so I
took advantage of that & bought some of Ray Pilgrims's sheep and
catchpoint indicators - I'm nowhere near ready to use them, but they do
look quite nice and won't go astray.<br />
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To wind this post up with, We had a pretty big occasion a couple of weeks back which is one of the reasons that the layout has not progressed as far as I had hoped, no complaints from me as this was a bloody great reason to put the layout in the background for a while and it was one of the biggest moments of my life walking this young lady down the aisle & welcoming her hubby to the family.<br />
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<br />railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com0Glenmore Park, NSW 2745, Australia-33.870415550941821 150.556642625-63.005013550941825 109.248048625 -4.735817550941821 -168.13476337500003tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-51154340549127752902016-11-26T23:33:00.001-08:002016-11-26T23:33:23.163-08:00Track Laying almost doneNow that my version of the Southern Aurora is done & dusted I've gone back to the layout which I have not done any real work on since starting the Southern Aurora and it does need a lot of TLC, also with me hosting a meeting here recently (Yesterday) it was a good deadline to work to to get some more stuff done on the layout.<br />
<br />
I've had a bit of a track laying spurt over the last few months, the track for my version of Dunedoo is now laid, the servo point motors have been installed and the track from Dunedoo to Binnaway (Staging) is laid, I do have to make the Binnaway staging yard though, which will be based on a sector plate and the final (Up/East) staging yard (which will be in the return loop near Liverpool).<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcEhbd92rJok1yx7JqIwC7-SJKNYg3sARCnQ7hyIuBjhYok8m7dlfyaE2CHeojjyP0Xi27ROA1D2OK-IRhwi4Ha6WruLxVdK7xBvZIer8ZHKYEVFXo1XqsNTPtO8LAho21karxaUkdhII/s1600/20161126_224247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcEhbd92rJok1yx7JqIwC7-SJKNYg3sARCnQ7hyIuBjhYok8m7dlfyaE2CHeojjyP0Xi27ROA1D2OK-IRhwi4Ha6WruLxVdK7xBvZIer8ZHKYEVFXo1XqsNTPtO8LAho21karxaUkdhII/s320/20161126_224247.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking from the Mudgee end into Dunedoo, </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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The station building is actually based on Gulgong (which I was going to model originally but I then realised I did not really have the room for it), I'm in two minds
whether to make another station building based on the real thing or just use
this. The Silos were started many moons ago but I've recently re-started
on them, I've built the scale annex and loading road, still heaps to do though, I'll be using Keiran Ryan's Etch parts (<a href="http://www.krmodels.com.au/krm_s04_page.html" target="_blank">KRModels Silo Details Etch</a>) to detail the silo with.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtLGiQqZR9wdHRuRrqGV7xgysmw6pZwYxJJcC7M5cIxS97NiJ77MXg1LBwb1nDN1Z6K159fp3XwZ7Z2-2N2SOQQdLxJbmh505WoyGn1BO0YOfP6zPbKBzTDyoCOejBST8agj1C0qjhlz0/s1600/20161126_224338.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtLGiQqZR9wdHRuRrqGV7xgysmw6pZwYxJJcC7M5cIxS97NiJ77MXg1LBwb1nDN1Z6K159fp3XwZ7Z2-2N2SOQQdLxJbmh505WoyGn1BO0YOfP6zPbKBzTDyoCOejBST8agj1C0qjhlz0/s320/20161126_224338.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking from part way along the Binnaway end of the yard, the loading bank will have to be modified to fit the space</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0-KYhdmNc9YBrXnye9MaKb6-Jmf1y0wJWgdDuYWhF719X6IulxUHW3A6UMZuOgRmWZoBS3dk-9kOmeSWuyvnGbZPfiEs9DZpvKzOwltvw4I9Quj6Sd0b_uRAb0y_XQCHahtYwjkRdMwQ/s1600/20161126_224328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0-KYhdmNc9YBrXnye9MaKb6-Jmf1y0wJWgdDuYWhF719X6IulxUHW3A6UMZuOgRmWZoBS3dk-9kOmeSWuyvnGbZPfiEs9DZpvKzOwltvw4I9Quj6Sd0b_uRAb0y_XQCHahtYwjkRdMwQ/s320/20161126_224328.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking from the Binnaway end of the yard, the Yellow Golden Fleece tanker is on the siding that will serve the Oil depot via a remote unloading point and the stock wagons are parked on the stock road.</td></tr>
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<br />
I've also made a new curved point to serve an oil depot, I made it using a templot plan <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsHUnNC1WfWRGQ6oBrFlLCo-bP52_zw62U25XHUXVXEytKvZunRNOM4hnD2RuQdf7ZFQNchV9u6bTukg2NfeOTQCmsxdmYNgou34rgcxy7MAWPZ9XSUsMuWOl60KeV7XRDhEV_iy46DN0/s1600/20160731_170243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsHUnNC1WfWRGQ6oBrFlLCo-bP52_zw62U25XHUXVXEytKvZunRNOM4hnD2RuQdf7ZFQNchV9u6bTukg2NfeOTQCmsxdmYNgou34rgcxy7MAWPZ9XSUsMuWOl60KeV7XRDhEV_iy46DN0/s320/20160731_170243.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Templot plan mounted on a board</td></tr>
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I made the plan initially by rubbing the original track curve onto a piece of paper and then scanning & importing
the rubbing/drawing into templot to then develop the point plan, then using the standard (for me) rail soldered to PCB method to make the point <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZRDFXiUxorhYHDds-3Y76ZOyMBPksSVqpUMezetVkJU2q6QLiYP3fYcK1buonWKp5YMdbq4WdnCSgGW70axDL_BCmZcjbDvkynaBiatva4uw8YxWZjAqTSi7GCAQjhv2NPUt541NLvKM/s1600/20160731_170111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZRDFXiUxorhYHDds-3Y76ZOyMBPksSVqpUMezetVkJU2q6QLiYP3fYcK1buonWKp5YMdbq4WdnCSgGW70axDL_BCmZcjbDvkynaBiatva4uw8YxWZjAqTSi7GCAQjhv2NPUt541NLvKM/s320/20160731_170111.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The point built using the temmplot plan, the road to the left is the oil depot road, the 2 roads to the right are to serve the abattoir</td></tr>
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Pretty happy with the resultant point & the rolling stock seems to roll through it OK, though they don't have very far to go & at bugger all speed so I guess not a real test for track laying skills.<br />
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Another job I undertook was to make the viaduct that sort off represents the Shepherd Street viaduct just south of Liverpool, it was made using a mix of 10mm and 5mm foamcore as the structural base<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHWx16VNPg6_mr1OO9puigD2RagkrcUWROCOtx-PDcvJZ0GZEXavCx8IyOPM84zpE3pEwZTCuFDlcN4fHK436mvtfl6LovDfjoInjlcyrVjCohJaOWHleuMgLsMIqGyyiPLC9IiawY-yM/s1600/20160709_160412.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="96" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHWx16VNPg6_mr1OO9puigD2RagkrcUWROCOtx-PDcvJZ0GZEXavCx8IyOPM84zpE3pEwZTCuFDlcN4fHK436mvtfl6LovDfjoInjlcyrVjCohJaOWHleuMgLsMIqGyyiPLC9IiawY-yM/s320/20160709_160412.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The foamcore core for the viaduct, pretty simple really</td></tr>
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<span id="goog_432732885"></span><span id="goog_432732886"></span><br />
<br />
and then overlaying with SouthEast finecast embossed styrene (they make an A3 size viaductsheet which is near enough for me to the Liverpool Viaduct)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNBHf6xX9IcKaFQM7-9uBOOD4cr1MU1Gw8SQSB0zbbovZGkim60tEgMvWTKx0TABkEsp0GhO7LT8gcCNizoOoePW3Iyf7JtAzql8VqhMzg93CqBlriHewXot99mh-2h-3Hgy-OL-5yHMU/s1600/20160715_083551.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="85" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNBHf6xX9IcKaFQM7-9uBOOD4cr1MU1Gw8SQSB0zbbovZGkim60tEgMvWTKx0TABkEsp0GhO7LT8gcCNizoOoePW3Iyf7JtAzql8VqhMzg93CqBlriHewXot99mh-2h-3Hgy-OL-5yHMU/s320/20160715_083551.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detailing bits & pieces added</td></tr>
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I used crosslinked PVA to glue the styrene to the foamcore and whilst it seems to have worked OK, I'm not convinced on the long term bond of the Styrene to the foamcore (Solvent based contact adhesive may have been better), the viaduct was then detailed (buttresses made, capping added etc, and arches lined) this was then sprayed with a yellow oxide (Cheap) spray can<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7UMRGpOn3PhmOkepyxuSjwzvb4PJKJKiL-QQPTND1Cvztq3G3daJPRw1mlsq1FZgiKO2ekh9ZZSZdMLPffwVcUSfYCMLd4zEVABbtgWHsjxLNf1rzgdysjd_AT9fHUEe_gMmpfXuh0XM/s1600/20160717_152130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="89" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7UMRGpOn3PhmOkepyxuSjwzvb4PJKJKiL-QQPTND1Cvztq3G3daJPRw1mlsq1FZgiKO2ekh9ZZSZdMLPffwVcUSfYCMLd4zEVABbtgWHsjxLNf1rzgdysjd_AT9fHUEe_gMmpfXuh0XM/s320/20160717_152130.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sprayed with (Cheap) yellow oxide</td></tr>
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<br />
and then drybrushed with various tones of browns and reds and then overstamped with the same colours using an offcut of a kitchen sponge, not sure whether to give the viaduct a final overall wash to tie it all in or not.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgabyuTpaBV8gV25QCYUh_MUwt1KoySrly16TjxTbQQETxpqobJhcLSgsTpqn_Mr67OZG7SQ1F45emzk8U6XYOj8nZB0WTWkqMRQzQNhBHBhvsgEZQ7m3jm5TWt9qx-zwVhGrZAY-YMfm4/s1600/20161126_224232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgabyuTpaBV8gV25QCYUh_MUwt1KoySrly16TjxTbQQETxpqobJhcLSgsTpqn_Mr67OZG7SQ1F45emzk8U6XYOj8nZB0WTWkqMRQzQNhBHBhvsgEZQ7m3jm5TWt9qx-zwVhGrZAY-YMfm4/s320/20161126_224232.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drybrushed and 'pad/sponge' painted.</td></tr>
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I'm pretty happy with the end result, and its first time I've attempted something like this and it has been a great learning experience.<br />
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Then I had to clear the layout of all the junk currently strewn over it to get it running for a meeting I just had here, so this is the cleanest the layout has been for quite a while And I CAN run trains again - always a good thing, but somehow I don't think it will stay that way, but hopefully it won't get as untidy as what it was and I'll be able to continue running trains.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8NYds2faERi8BDmcOpM6QsEU4_tI1VOuHiX8klvSP8teEnFVPn6M9wMNF_HG_qHBSekfDzi5R3IgziGNoHVjdli7omdvE0JHjs1e2NjZD3UrLLidESunuV8eZciEuIctspx9dUB02jc/s1600/20161127_001352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8NYds2faERi8BDmcOpM6QsEU4_tI1VOuHiX8klvSP8teEnFVPn6M9wMNF_HG_qHBSekfDzi5R3IgziGNoHVjdli7omdvE0JHjs1e2NjZD3UrLLidESunuV8eZciEuIctspx9dUB02jc/s320/20161127_001352.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Overall view of the bottom deck of the layout - I can see a floor :-)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJCd1cWEN3-BSOfs8N11oOqoO1qQzzZSv4gfroZoc0TdxirUfA5DRRznubNO5Vs5gDwkixovJHTYBxBKd5007SZvzXIGK5oWZls53jNYlX63JoKXxJE0CSjCd0pN2xhA8S-XN0XIzoXKk/s1600/20161127_001402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJCd1cWEN3-BSOfs8N11oOqoO1qQzzZSv4gfroZoc0TdxirUfA5DRRznubNO5Vs5gDwkixovJHTYBxBKd5007SZvzXIGK5oWZls53jNYlX63JoKXxJE0CSjCd0pN2xhA8S-XN0XIzoXKk/s320/20161127_001402.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Overall view of the top deck of the layout - Dunedoo is right at the back against the rear wall/window</td></tr>
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Whilst the guys were here I discussed the hiding of the back roads from Mudgee to Dunedoo & from Dunedoo to the staging yard as I did not want them to be part of the scene - then one of the guys (thank you Geoff S.) said why not just make the back drop smaller cause there is a ready made 'sky' backdrop in the blue ceiling so just hide the tracks. So I experimented by cutting down one of the backdrops and am quite pleased with the results, the following few photos show the results using the track going from Dunedoo to staging/Binnaway etc.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5yxE88YnfRBK56TOe4DphLsiYiP3YdcntJpPwnvMXtDvbj2X-4ds6oDK4AYUZG4Q1uNbnN_6Y2lOveDgbdY_zDwyVzWYsNGnn4YtOsDVzWEiE-ryYimuGxBgG9ecTfUm9X14cPk6Xx4w/s1600/20161126_172556.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5yxE88YnfRBK56TOe4DphLsiYiP3YdcntJpPwnvMXtDvbj2X-4ds6oDK4AYUZG4Q1uNbnN_6Y2lOveDgbdY_zDwyVzWYsNGnn4YtOsDVzWEiE-ryYimuGxBgG9ecTfUm9X14cPk6Xx4w/s320/20161126_172556.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No backdrop - Portland in the foreground and the track from Dunedoo to Binnaway (stage) in the background (its the rearmost track and you can just make out the Silo @ Dunedoo) The trackbed leading down behind the station is for a small Narrow Gauge (HOn30) line </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaPdRBwm48HhaceUrvtaccxjgkQmi75sbDjEA-gkqyNEiibJA6zHF8GEAgqVkDMltDKTvplvMHFGywesd_en1DF8ZW1cdBr2GGyWmLAAplDX0CcRUZwKiIyH1vhBzq8HKlZX3G6PzXko4/s1600/20161126_172710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaPdRBwm48HhaceUrvtaccxjgkQmi75sbDjEA-gkqyNEiibJA6zHF8GEAgqVkDMltDKTvplvMHFGywesd_en1DF8ZW1cdBr2GGyWmLAAplDX0CcRUZwKiIyH1vhBzq8HKlZX3G6PzXko4/s320/20161126_172710.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original Backdrop temporarily added - whilst the trains would not be visible behind the backdrop any derailed trains would have to be retrieved from under the layout with some gymnastic involved, and I'm getting too old for gymnastics.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoCVRTDbf_-P5kLJp9zctkDU6uh9E7aB6lWTO7mqNekHkI0xzyCgfZsd683yefD_EqkQAZiwP5Ti-hWqKIH974XMRNsdn8q2eP9vblYzJPsYS5StlvHqSEeWTdNJU56O8MqUZxDru93zk/s1600/20161127_103812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoCVRTDbf_-P5kLJp9zctkDU6uh9E7aB6lWTO7mqNekHkI0xzyCgfZsd683yefD_EqkQAZiwP5Ti-hWqKIH974XMRNsdn8q2eP9vblYzJPsYS5StlvHqSEeWTdNJU56O8MqUZxDru93zk/s320/20161127_103812.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 'new' shorter backdrop taken from roughly the same location as the previous photo</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT2GBPz3c2aXwT_iSU9QmwgqNo9S9o10QWP1TxTG9MoHiqn8Z-1kZ4Ox4SPUD8Z6aTKEwxuygawyyUA5RCydUpxldwsb-PUwUeFt9ww7OJs2VklG2MPzHof-McdJAG5TT5FKIpz8jAHwk/s1600/20161127_103826.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT2GBPz3c2aXwT_iSU9QmwgqNo9S9o10QWP1TxTG9MoHiqn8Z-1kZ4Ox4SPUD8Z6aTKEwxuygawyyUA5RCydUpxldwsb-PUwUeFt9ww7OJs2VklG2MPzHof-McdJAG5TT5FKIpz8jAHwk/s320/20161127_103826.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same location as above photo, but with the SHO on the track</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuvBxwudYW1Ab7CpcC_nVwk6VHqEsW9pLh4paABD391yrHhqIGNlq7vTUOhmb3gaMZrUsZaX5dD47S94M0mu8UwBKUd1PqhwncrDnIfbdAOU81WB0r5JnfsfzkcDgt43xMFiMISGOWX3U/s1600/20161126_173409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuvBxwudYW1Ab7CpcC_nVwk6VHqEsW9pLh4paABD391yrHhqIGNlq7vTUOhmb3gaMZrUsZaX5dD47S94M0mu8UwBKUd1PqhwncrDnIfbdAOU81WB0r5JnfsfzkcDgt43xMFiMISGOWX3U/s320/20161126_173409.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Closer view of the cutdown backdrop - note that tracks are not visible which is the main effect I was after</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYwIi8cE4cuPt4Juki26snu0m0ghs7RA_qcLy02wLAV4jQR04XoTeYvJ5FBNe5Dk0FpJ5TX3nZkXkchrOXJRTJl3-gBJ4ITiX7UWFov_d7IpqQ93YOsmtLiUWDnSfH5SihCaYBI8xDw6U/s1600/20161126_173441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYwIi8cE4cuPt4Juki26snu0m0ghs7RA_qcLy02wLAV4jQR04XoTeYvJ5FBNe5Dk0FpJ5TX3nZkXkchrOXJRTJl3-gBJ4ITiX7UWFov_d7IpqQ93YOsmtLiUWDnSfH5SihCaYBI8xDw6U/s320/20161126_173441.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Closer view of the cutdown backdrop with SHO carriage on the track</td></tr>
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The photo with the SHO on the back track shows that whilst noticeable & does intrude into the scene, it is not really that
bad and trains will not all that often be on the back track so no real biggie & the track is not noticeable when no trains are on it which in an ops
session would be the norm more often than not.<br />
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I'll probably end up making the top a bit wavy so it's not too 'solid' a line and thus will hopefully not draw the eye to it and also will be covering the 'backdrop' with foilage (trees/shrubs etc) leaving the ceiling to represent the sky, well that the current plan.<br />
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The next few step will be around the points/switches, one will be to setup the TAM Valley point controllers to use them as an accessory decoder via DCC, the other main thing I have to do is to re-visit the main staging yard points as they were some of the first point I made and I'm not happy with their layout, nor the way they move (too stiff), once they've been re-done I'll then leave the track laying for while, hopefully run the layout & iron out any bugs I can see & I can already see some track has buckled in the recent hot days we've had.<br />
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Well, that's it for now, so until next time. railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-48395473230219902512016-01-03T02:09:00.001-08:002016-01-03T02:09:31.102-08:00Southern Aurora Finally finished<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My Southern Aurora's Inaugural Run on the Mudgee Line.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVbZi7mOdEIHPsT0iGFdRlPPpGltYPKkvAVURZj-efz0zjIAIXtMwvsB38p3PtBs-4PgKSOFZGav_0alA2kQ_KVuXascbHKCKoGDSxLg8Raqj7wHgKNmFH1IWt942FnLNC10owrRnOj3A/s1600/20160103_160951.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVbZi7mOdEIHPsT0iGFdRlPPpGltYPKkvAVURZj-efz0zjIAIXtMwvsB38p3PtBs-4PgKSOFZGav_0alA2kQ_KVuXascbHKCKoGDSxLg8Raqj7wHgKNmFH1IWt942FnLNC10owrRnOj3A/s320/20160103_160951.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Double 44's, hauling the Southern Aurora the way it should be, though they are a bit too clean.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCpOuJ1gxTkQ-Ld5tuMOg9yiLrWAOUSx7X2JGa2r_6O8pzAtxfVIZEty1125rFJNJRjcUJG1yQwy2tpqWkHxdxIxo5f93GYybr8IH3XiW3D8uXRBWfv9TitTVPz3YoxtAEZ90HsDWLeZM/s1600/20160103_161709_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCpOuJ1gxTkQ-Ld5tuMOg9yiLrWAOUSx7X2JGa2r_6O8pzAtxfVIZEty1125rFJNJRjcUJG1yQwy2tpqWkHxdxIxo5f93GYybr8IH3XiW3D8uXRBWfv9TitTVPz3YoxtAEZ90HsDWLeZM/s320/20160103_161709_001.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Passing Portland Station on the UP. </span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">If you look real hard you might be able to see the revelers enjoying themselves in the Lounge Car. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggFqhzdUiZX-lmvEluUjKvGPaeleyQyi-z9gK-VrN59UPns9JNFfzbZI4DD9-H2xAvR34X8050AohhYfuM0qdxeKtGySJRwlg2hIGLmWuWt_sTgNoagTE913eoZH5zJqPaetCfYZFoKUo/s1600/20160103_162058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggFqhzdUiZX-lmvEluUjKvGPaeleyQyi-z9gK-VrN59UPns9JNFfzbZI4DD9-H2xAvR34X8050AohhYfuM0qdxeKtGySJRwlg2hIGLmWuWt_sTgNoagTE913eoZH5zJqPaetCfYZFoKUo/s320/20160103_162058.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Well its been a long time coming but finally my version of the Southern Aurora following Ian Blacks Article is done and had its inaugural run on my layout.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A comment was made in one of the previous posts as to what paint I'd be using to paint the models & I said I would be using the Stainless Steel colour from the Alclad 2 range. I had read up on using this system and the main point is to undercoat the model in a gloss black which is then top coated with mist coats of the final colour, and then a clear coat, but whilst doing a bit of research I came across an article by Antonio Santana (<a href="http://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/realistic-stainless-steel-appearances-with-alclad2-metalizer">Link to Stainless Steel colour article</a>) where he outlined his findings on using the Alclad 2 system and he found out that he got a better finish using a gloss dark gray undercoat rather than a gloss black undercoat with Chrome as the final <span style="line-height: 115%;">colour (he has also written an article in the Sep. 2013 Model Railroad
Hobbyist magazine (Link to </span><span style="line-height: 115%;"><a href="http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/magazine/mrh-2013-09-sep"><span style="line-height: 115%;">model-railroad-hobbyist magazine
2013-September</span></a></span><span style="line-height: 115%;">)</span>, when looking at the photos in his article I thought the models looked too shiny compared to what I have seen of the Southern Aurora where the stainless looks a bit duller so I experimented on a spare Lima Indian Pacific car I had with the gloss dark gray and a gloss black with the stainless steel colour over the top. I showed the end result to a few friends, both in the hobby and outside of the hobby and they all said they preferred the stainless over the dark gray base coat, (in the photo below the Gray base coat on the left hand side, the Black base coat is on the right hand side) its more noticeable in real life and the side that has the black base coat is noticeably darker.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnEhZqCXPeUXqv8YibrnIlBIvx82wTma8CgPt1ym6om8KNmv_xtphoYHmq0KuKwCH_eXSWXWhmi_Fen8UzpdNnBNHQaG_BJWiOhIlfjzTkxnS4jHlpAiJ7dlcFFaw7HtR5VmZ30rr-1bs/s1600/DSC_0010-a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="76" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnEhZqCXPeUXqv8YibrnIlBIvx82wTma8CgPt1ym6om8KNmv_xtphoYHmq0KuKwCH_eXSWXWhmi_Fen8UzpdNnBNHQaG_BJWiOhIlfjzTkxnS4jHlpAiJ7dlcFFaw7HtR5VmZ30rr-1bs/s1600/DSC_0010-a.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hard to see in the photos but certainly noticeable in real life, the Black undercoat is on the right and results in a darker stainless colour than the grey undercoat.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The colour I used for the base coat was a Mr Colour Engine Gray (#339) (and yes I bought it from BNA Model World - no association with them except for a happy customer)</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjinU3hdlbAQKU82Ive6lwac3IWSzBjcwcU97WV1p_A241ewYkFY3n2eodMRS8obTNjF6-FX46DubxuqLlPFtl-PvFEC4fAETHbgRnoOPQJbf5PPVow4CXU1mhWWlL9_7k5PFE6vwpo44U/s1600/MrC-339.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjinU3hdlbAQKU82Ive6lwac3IWSzBjcwcU97WV1p_A241ewYkFY3n2eodMRS8obTNjF6-FX46DubxuqLlPFtl-PvFEC4fAETHbgRnoOPQJbf5PPVow4CXU1mhWWlL9_7k5PFE6vwpo44U/s1600/MrC-339.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, though I did run low so added some gloss black to extend it & so the final gray is quite a bit darker than the original test, though this does not seem to have affected the final outcome, one of each of the models in their undercoat grey and their corresponding finished stainless steel are below.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEW4xkqmHT2awpY1eNyIdT4dMIOty8BIH35_PWrMO_7uzS46T8X_e3n26PPEQF8taWj8hUbWAY-GiZWvp0kHWZJwlc83WOb_rutCSy9hJ9vVjvl5LI8xokwr6Wn9dJdK4F-I697ZNZYxI/s1600/DSC_0013-a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEW4xkqmHT2awpY1eNyIdT4dMIOty8BIH35_PWrMO_7uzS46T8X_e3n26PPEQF8taWj8hUbWAY-GiZWvp0kHWZJwlc83WOb_rutCSy9hJ9vVjvl5LI8xokwr6Wn9dJdK4F-I697ZNZYxI/s1600/DSC_0013-a.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Plain Engine Gray (#339) on left and the Black & Gray mix on right</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiflS3RRRrDHd7oIWz43kx7sCGkUb4YzSa-1kSzP6368zgCk0fPgTm_HNduc3GwdVF-EOKBglzxqe2MV4b18tvbpX3i8vdSBm4gkMck7RZInUl4xxx3-SwNxSDuyLsH_JsTewK_ZZO_qc/s1600/DSC_0012-a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="153" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiflS3RRRrDHd7oIWz43kx7sCGkUb4YzSa-1kSzP6368zgCk0fPgTm_HNduc3GwdVF-EOKBglzxqe2MV4b18tvbpX3i8vdSBm4gkMck7RZInUl4xxx3-SwNxSDuyLsH_JsTewK_ZZO_qc/s1600/DSC_0012-a.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Same models showing the stainless over the base coats - not much difference between the 2 grays</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">PHN</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And off course the Southern Aurora also had a car transporter, so my one had to have one too, this is based on the Strath Hobbies BKX, only real modification I've made to the kit is gluing the Motorail & NSWR nameboards appropriately and replacing the bogies with a set of 2CM bogies from SDS models (Thanks Steve).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My method of painting the models was to give them a good scrub with Gumption and an electric toothbrush, followed by Mr Colour 1000 Surfacer (Primer),</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8nRZz3ps_y6tj7O0xip-KsjxWXI95J8gmqWh047hvojWEatWvOYPLr3UqeH6yYcoIdXPjayAzfhyLcxWtjJUedP-HIca-oLIqzrARULa3hjMHEtzt-IlU66_SDNOGtmiuXx2D43K_QTs/s1600/Mr+S1000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8nRZz3ps_y6tj7O0xip-KsjxWXI95J8gmqWh047hvojWEatWvOYPLr3UqeH6yYcoIdXPjayAzfhyLcxWtjJUedP-HIca-oLIqzrARULa3hjMHEtzt-IlU66_SDNOGtmiuXx2D43K_QTs/s1600/Mr+S1000.jpg" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I then touched up any areas I was not happy with, again I scrubbed with gumption & the toothbrush, then the dark gray undercoat & finally the stainless steel topcoat.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A word of warning/advise about the Alclad 2 paint - it gives a result that I am very happy with - I like the look of it, BUT it is very unforgiving if there are any minor blemishes, as an example where I joined the roof pieces together to get the roof I wanted the paint highlights where it was joined or where the original 'silver' paint was rubbed back and even though it was primed and undercoated with gloss gray and it looked OK, the final Alclad 2 top coat showed off where the join was made, on another car I accidentally dropped a bit of thinners (I used as glue) on the side corrugations, this caused the Lima 'silver' paint to craze & even though I rubbed it back and primed over it still shows though, so it is good stuff but one has to be careful, in hindsight I probably should have stripped the original paint off, but I will use this again where needed.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I used one of my cars w</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">hilst experimenting the the decals, this led to the silver 'rubbing off' around some of the window frames due to handling the model which had not being clearcoated as yet I've tried to highlight with a red circle the area in question in the following photo </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCKFY9Vqe5az2XuZyK6AAinsdiLKtJKbMTgeBtkSt5yT-5LCqedZSAhuijLYC1mHAPUmned6sPXF4WiqBOIErk_WuH29vDp35zbli08U-ZKWoMK06sEmCsk8Rf-U2XZyRlygCE91QfZgk/s1600/rub-off-window-frames-2-red.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="98" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCKFY9Vqe5az2XuZyK6AAinsdiLKtJKbMTgeBtkSt5yT-5LCqedZSAhuijLYC1mHAPUmned6sPXF4WiqBOIErk_WuH29vDp35zbli08U-ZKWoMK06sEmCsk8Rf-U2XZyRlygCE91QfZgk/s320/rub-off-window-frames-2-red.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">easy enough fix - simply mask over the silver with some 'Blue' tape and re-sprayed, or so I thought, looks like the silver paint 'lifted' when he tape was pulled off a few hours after it was applied hopefully one can make out where the paint lifted off, again highlighted with a red circle - BUT - be careful as even though the models have been clearcoated the silver still rubbed off slightly whilst fitting the windows - lesson learnt - fit (but don't glue) all windows before painting, then remove windows & then paint the body so as to lessen the handing of the painted model - too late for these models but a learning point for the next models I have a go at.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkWnL5-lHoJ6G7ZA5mrWDN8P0-HnaoC1phAfhBupE4D3v1fj132gJRNuLV2m9vmx6IbYYiYAxYcUvJohrAVUahubRhkW5O_dgjwgUFEOih3xWz3gxvsp-AXcrD0zNvyqVG3ARWgGVSulI/s1600/rub-off-window-frames-1-red.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="98" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkWnL5-lHoJ6G7ZA5mrWDN8P0-HnaoC1phAfhBupE4D3v1fj132gJRNuLV2m9vmx6IbYYiYAxYcUvJohrAVUahubRhkW5O_dgjwgUFEOih3xWz3gxvsp-AXcrD0zNvyqVG3ARWgGVSulI/s320/rub-off-window-frames-1-red.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Alclad 2 comes pre-thinned and I got about 2 <span style="font-size: x-small;">3/4</span> cars per bottle. this was top coated with the Alcad 2 clear basecoat after the models where decalled. Talking about the decals, I got them from Geoff @ Custom Hobby Decals (<a href="http://www.customhobbydecals.com/">www.customhobbydecals.com</a>), again just a happy customer. As luck had it Geoff was making some new signs for some real Southern Aurora cars & so we where able to piggy back of them, supplementing them with some photos & measurements I had previously taken when researching the cars down at ARHS ACT which Geoff used to make the remaining decals, so if anyone needs a full set of Southern Aurora decals then Geoff's your man, I believe that Casula Hobbies stock them. The decals are pretty easy to apply, but not like what I am normally use to, but if you follow Geoff's instruction (I let them soak for about 30 seconds and then peel them of the backing sheets) then they go on easily, please note that the decals are 'cut' around the perimeter saving the hassal of having to accurately trim them oneself. I am thinking that with the Alclad paint that I should have clearcoated the models before decalling, as well as after, so the decals have a nice glossy surface to adhere to.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I bought all my paint from BNA Model world, no association with them, but they had all I needed (including some model car stuff), I believe that Kellets in Liverpool, NSW also stock the Mr Colour range of paints, not sure about the Alclad 2 paints.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Windows are made from 1mm poly-carbonate I found when up in Coffs Harbour a few years back, but any plastics supplier should have it, it was cut using the cut & snap method, similar to styrene, it was then finally shaped with a file to suit, pretty easy material to work with & I like the end result.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">All the cars have interior lighting, one of the end cars has a home made DCC decoder driving the marker lights and the lit Southern Aurora sign (which is attached to either the PHN or MHN depending on direction of travel), the other car simply has the marker lights LED in series with the 'Southern Aurora' sign LED which means if the sign is not connected then the markers do not light up, pretty simple really, the sign is connected to the carriages via IC sockets. This is visible in the below photo of the MHN, the IC sockets are the 2 small holes mid way down the end, they are not that noticeable on the model and the car that does not have the sign is normally next to the loco & thus even less noticeable. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6VOiFzeotj9XngjWQZhCqOfCzOw2faCoja5s7BeryMExTDRRKKwCAZSJ-QidVi3x-PKoGvRfiZMuup8HhrLW1T6BGEaiINsvz6enDIwy6Ce9KU2Jmp4hnKf7V-KZnaFU5zoctXFx_-s/s1600/20151015_085608.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6VOiFzeotj9XngjWQZhCqOfCzOw2faCoja5s7BeryMExTDRRKKwCAZSJ-QidVi3x-PKoGvRfiZMuup8HhrLW1T6BGEaiINsvz6enDIwy6Ce9KU2Jmp4hnKf7V-KZnaFU5zoctXFx_-s/s200/20151015_085608.jpg" width="172" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKcwwu2ZcZtIIKRbPjP9MbFd3NcDSI3PKAbG3CRco4uZzE0TSzzcIIhgmiVPhd-SZdrpSVjRVG4IWdtONnq_KM0IxXwErXV1ac6lfljJ2ldFqqwwSFtINgwh7SQZopZPfA7NWCTx0xTUA/s1600/MHN-xx-20151015_085636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="142" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKcwwu2ZcZtIIKRbPjP9MbFd3NcDSI3PKAbG3CRco4uZzE0TSzzcIIhgmiVPhd-SZdrpSVjRVG4IWdtONnq_KM0IxXwErXV1ac6lfljJ2ldFqqwwSFtINgwh7SQZopZPfA7NWCTx0xTUA/s200/MHN-xx-20151015_085636.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A photo of the lit end is at the end of this blog.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Talking about the lit nameboard, I used a photo I had taken at Central a few years back as a mask to create it in Corel Draw, this was then printed on a colour laser copier onto decal paper a couple of times, then I applied one decal to the nameboard, and tested it when dry, this showed that the light bled through too brightly and was very visible through the blue, I then over painted the blue with a gloss black (being careful not to get it onto the actual lettering) and when dry with a gloss white, and then applied a second decal over the top, this pretty well stopped the light bleeding through. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The rest of the cars a have simple circuit I found on the web by Jim Betz that uses a Bridge rectifier, a zener diode and resistors (as pictured below, photo from Jm Betz's site) to power the LEDs (<a href="http://ssandifer.com/Lay/Howard/Const/LEDMarker/Index.htm">Flicker Free Lighting Circuit</a>), - just make sure you cut the tracks as appropriate, I didn't & let the magic smoke out of the various components :-(</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">All bogies have electrical pickup, the 2BS are from Eureka (as used in their HUB set) and come with inbuilt pickup, the 2BU are modified Lima bogies with pickup via brass bearing and soldered connections to them, not the best but seems to work, BTW I ended up just soldering all the components together bypassing the use of the circuit board which made it a much more compact package.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Anyways, thats it for now and ends the saga of my build of the Southern Aurora cars, its been a long but enjoyable </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">project </span> & I've learnt heaps which I hope I can apply to other modelling projects, all thats left now is just a few pictures to finish off with and to wish all a Happy New Year.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> On Colo Vale on it's first trip</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At the Oct 2015 Sydney Exhibition at Liverpool on the Epping MRC Binalong Layout.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At speed passing through Binalong</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Who's that knocking at the door ...</span>
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<br />railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-76378032205570507392015-09-08T06:23:00.001-07:002015-09-08T06:23:54.564-07:00LED Marker lights for the Austrains 36 and Trainorama 32Its taken a bit longer than anticipated to get this post ready, partially because of a couple of issues I had (which I've detailed later in this post), I hope its of some benefit to other modelers.<br />
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As I mentioned in one of my previous posts, whilst I've been mainly mucking around with the Southern Aurora, I've taken the opportunity to briefly do some other modelling, in this case making working White & Red marker lights for the Trainorama 32 and the Austrains 36, it been a relatively quick, mainly fun but occasionally frustrating project, the longest part of this little project has actually been waiting for some bits to turn up, and then lately finalising the Southern Aurora also got in the way.<br />
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I originally purchased some red & white markers that where nothing more than a red & white 0603 (I think) glued back to back, and the corresponding wires soldered to them, they where not that cheap & I unfortunately ended up blowing a couple of them as I was mucking around with the 32. When I went looking for replacements I thought that there had to be something better & I came across this web sites (<a href="http://www.led1.de/shop/lng/en/led-smd/smd-led-series-0603/duo-led-smd-0603-red/white-wemrw01-c2m.html">Link to LEDs</a>) - if the link does not work try cutting & pasting the following "http://www.led1.de/shop/lng/en/led-smd/smd-led-series-0603/duo-led-smd-0603-red/white-wemrw01-c2m.html" which has what appears to be two LED dies (not sure if that the right terminology) in a package about the size of an 0606 LED (I've also since starting this post seen similar LEDs on eBay,eg: <a href="http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DT0605RWM-20pcs-Pre-soldered-litz-wired-Bi-color-RED-WARM-WHITE-SMD-Led-0605-NEW-/181508130124?hash=item2a42ba454c" target="_blank">SMD eBay LEDs</a>), these LEDs are pre-wired, but be careful how they are wired (see Ray P's Bylong Blog for details - <a href="http://bylong.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/wired-bi-colour-0605-surface-mount.html" target="_blank">Bylong LED Blog</a>). You can see the SMD LEDs in the following photo where they have been glued to the front of the Austrains existing front marker lights (which have had the front of them shaved/trimmed off) - I've also got them on the Traino 32 and a DJH 30T I'm currently working on.<br />
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By the time they are painted they look the part.<br />
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And they don't appear as harsh as the photos show. <br />
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A minor issue is that the red light emits from top right & the white light emits from the bottom left, but this is not really a problem because I make a lens for the marker light by placing a small dab of white glue in the centre of the Led which when it dries leaves a dimple of glue, this is quite visible in the side on photo of the Traino 32 markers treated in this way<br />
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I then paint the marker light black leaving the 'dimple' unpainted which makes it look like a lens with the light comes out of the centre of the 'marker' - its also ended up being pretty good for size<br />
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There is also a warm white/red combo which would
probably have been better, but again I don't think that's a problem as I'm pretty sure a touch of clear
orange on the lens (or maybe a smear of black texta will tone them down some, or maybe a higher value resistor to cut down the light emitted). Unfortunately I ended up blowing a couple of the TCS WOW decoders which TCS replaced. no questions asked, more on this later.<br />
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With both these models I've had to run some extra wiring between the tender and loco, to help with this I've used a TCS 4 pin minature plug which I bought from MRC @ Blacktown, the plugs are delicate but work well. <br />
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As a side issue I've also placed a 'Sugar Cube' speaker inside the boiler of the Traino 32 - that's had its own issues, I initially made a single PCB board from some spare circuit board I had, I cut the copper to make individual pads, used a meter to make sure that there was no short and then soldered the LED & speaker wires to their individual pads, I'm not sure why but I had to separate the PCB that I was using to distribute the power to the LEDs & speaker into 2 separate boards, for some reason I was getting some sort of feedback which resulted in power getting to the LEDs causing them to glow dimly & eventually ended up incapacitating them, they didn't smoke or blow, they just stopped working. By separating the PCBs into one for the LEDs & a separate PCB for the Speakers all was good & yes I ran a meter between the tracks/traces & it showed no resistance yet there still seemed to be power getting thru, anyways, it all works OK now & that's all that really matters.<br />
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Speaking of Sugar Cube speaker, they are most definitely not all created equal. I was fortunate enough for Marcus Ammann to bring his sound 45 for a demo at a meeting a little while ago, Marcus has 2 'sugar cube speakers' setup in the loco selectable via a slide switch, one was a 'Streamlined Back Shop' speaker -( <a href="http://www.sbs4dcc.com/tutorialstipstricks/sugarcubespeakernotes.html" target="_blank">SBS sugarcubespeakers</a>) & the other was an eBay special & the difference was like chalk & cheese with the eBay special sounding very tinny & the SBS one sound very good to me. I must've got lucky with the eBay 'specials' I bought a while ago as they sound comparable to the SBS speakers which have a very good reputation, they cost about $2.00 each as a 10 pack with free postage, from memory they where marked as a NOKIA speaker/buzzer, but I'm not sure if they are still available, but there is a speaker made by Knowles which also have a good sound & are available from Digi key, unfortunately they are a bit dearer and postage from the States is not the cheapest. The 32 originally had 2 of these Nokia speakers in the tender and a third in the smokebox, after hearing Marcus's demo I decided to experiment by bypassing the speakers in the tender & realized I got a nice sound with just the one speaker in the smokebox & so promptly removed the speakers from the tender - good thing is that gives me 2 more speakers that I would otherwise not have had.<br />
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I also have to give a great big thumbs up to TCS DCC, as I mentioned I ended up blowing a couple of LEDs & also a couple of WOW sound decoders (Version 1), I emailed TCS & they said send them back & they will replace them, no questions asked, and they did, with the WOW v.3, can't complain about that, it's been a real pleasure to deal with them, and their techo , Dave, is a great guy to work with, they certainly have my business and am looking forward to getting a few of their new Diesel decoders.<br />
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<br />railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-24475760874822783232014-12-22T01:43:00.001-08:002014-12-22T01:43:21.890-08:00backdropsOhh what a difference a bit of painted cardboard makes.<br />
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I've been getting a bit sick & tired of the look of the layout & the extremely slow progress of anything happening on it, & whilst I have been busy doing stuff, it certainly is not reflected on the layout and thats really frustrating, so I took the plunge & decided to make the backdrops for behind the lower level of the layout and I gotta say what a difference the backdrops make. It's taken me a few weekends to paint the set below but I'm pretty pleased with the outcome.<br />
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I've included a couple of before and after shots and while it's only a backdrop and nothing else, it hopefully does convey a bit of what I'll be trying to achieve.<br />
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So, what a section of the layout looked like before I installed the backdrop<br />
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I initially tried to force the 3mm MDF into a curve & whilst it does work (I used a steamer to help in bending the MDF) it unfortunately resulted in the roundhouse (or at least whats built of it so far) not fitting, but it did look fairly good to me and while it can't be made out in the photo the backdrop starts to curve from just about where the mountains are, (or are they hills:-)<br />
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I was contemplating cutting the roundhouse down from a 5 stall to a 4 stall unit, but then thought that a better option would be to cut a slot half way into the rear of the backdrop and to then crease in the backdrop to force it into a corner rather than a gentle curve, the result is as in the photo below, yep the crease is very visible, and whilst not quite a hard edge it is noticeable, but to me better than cutting down the roundhouse and I think is better than seeing the support timbers in the 'before' photo.<br />
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And the culprit in its position, sorta, at least it fits with about 10mm to spare, now I've just gotta get too & finish it.<br />
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I've also started doing a bit of modelling with a mate where we are setting aside a day a week or so to make something we both need, and our first modelling session is making some watertanks following Peter Jarvis's article in the April & June 2013 AMRM, I'm making a couple of tanks, one a standard Casula Hobbies 40,000 gal tank and the other a cutdown 20,000 gal tank. I've deviated from the article for the 20,000 gal tank by making a timber stand (I've based it on Rankin Springs as described on ghsignal's blog : <a href="http://gshsignal.blogspot.com.au/2012/03/nsw-water-facilities-part-4-1916-to.html">link to ghsignal's water tank blog</a>), I've used North Eastern Scale lumber to make the tank stand and it will be going on my version of Dunedoo, and I have to thank Rod's NSWGR Southern Line in a shed site (<a href="http://southernline.blogspot.com.au/">Southern Line</a>) for the weathering tip using raven oil (I got mine from Blue Ribbon Saddlery @ St Marys, Sydney), I diluted it about 1:100 with metho as Rod recommends and I think it works like a charm, very happy with the result.<br />
I'm hoping to have it, and it's 40,000gal counterpart, for which I have to make the steel stand, finished early in the new year depending on how many sessions we can fit in and how much of a hassle it will be making the steel stand and it's braces and I also have to hunt down a jib for the timber stand, pretty certain I have something somewhere, just gotta find it.<br />
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Anyways that's it for now, I wish all a very Merry Christmas and Happy & Prosperous New Year.<br />
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<br />railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-4098350233083896852014-10-11T04:20:00.001-07:002014-10-11T04:45:26.191-07:00Not much to showHi All,<br />
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Well, I started writing this update just before father's day, then life got in the way, The Sydney Exhibition has come & gone and now we all know that Auscisions new model is the 421 and very nice it looks too, and as I look back at this blog I realize it's been well over a year since my last post, and in some ways I really haven't got too much to show for it, and then again I've done a fair bit, just not a whole lot to show for it.<br />
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The majority of the last year or so has been spent working on the Southern Aurora cars in some way or another. I've experimented with making my own casting & whilst its certainly taken a fair amount of time (& money) experimenting & researching the latest on mould making & casting I am pretty pleased with the outcome, and the majority of my underbody details are from castings that I've made the masters for, most can be seen in the following photo:<br />
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Also can be seen are the straps that hold the air & water tanks in place, these are also a casting and the masters where made from fine brass angle bent to shape, for most of these castings I've inlaid a piece of wire for strength, but I did run out of wire for the last few I cast and I must say that I'm pretty impressed with the strength of the polyuerethane, the brass hand brake detail are from Keiran Ryan's 'S' truck details which look good to me.</div>
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A couple of masters I made for the Southern Aurora are in the next photo, the condensers are modified from Casula Hobbies RUB car items - WITH Permission from Joe, they have been deepened to the correct depth, the side louvers have been added and minor detailing added to the front, was it worth it, time will tell, the other item is an electrical box,<br />
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both can been in the following photo.<br />
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Most of the moulds I've made are plain open top moulds that the resin is simply poured into, but one is a 2 part mould that I then inject the resin into using a syringe - and while I did bugger up the finer bits of making the mould (I used Clay to place the master into but it was not very level & I did not notice that util after the rubber was poured) I am never the less very happy the way that one turned out & certainly I'll be using that method in the future where needed. Just as a side note with the casting, I've found that the polyurethane resin I use (Barnes Pro-cast) casts very nice if I dust the moulds with talcum powder & then place the moulds into a pressure pot & have the pressure set at around 40PSI, the castings have minimal air bubbles and appear nice and crisp.<br />
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So the Southern Aurora cars are now complete as far as the bodies go, all 10 of them. The interiors have been built & painted :<br />
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Lounge car interior<br />
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Dining car interior<br />
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Sleeping car interior, I've only got one central wall, it should really be a corridor with doors, but hey I'm lazy & how much will one really see when the train is moving.</div>
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Interior for the other type of sleeping car, this side shows the two tone wall colour scheme & the painted on doors.</div>
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- bit rough, but as I've said , how much will one really see when the train is rolling past and also the four sets of Victorian 2BU bogies have been completed for their respective cars using the original Lima bogies:<br />
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Just as a side point, as per Ian's article I glued a piece of 40th styrene as a bearing point in the bolster, I initially tried superglue/Cryo, but it , naturally, did not really take all that well, if the bogie was flexed it tended to break the bond, then whilst at my local Aldi Store I came across a 'workzone MMA' glue, this to me has worked really well, but I've only seen it there the one time I bought it, but be aware it does have a smell to it, and a shelf life of about 6 months, but I do like the way it works.<br />
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I'm currently completing the underbody detailing and also making the windows, as I mentioned in one of my previous posts I was fortunate enough to pick up some 1mm clear poly-carbonate when I was up in Coffs Harbour for my last employer a few years ago, and experimented with it & was very happy with the results, and this is the material I've been using to make the windows with, it cuts easy (using the score & snap method - same as for styrene) and sands easy, I should have the windows finished soon, then the blinds and that should just about make the cars ready for the paint shop and I'm hoping to get them painted over the coming summer. It's been a long project, but worth it. And just as a preview I've included a few of photos of some of the cars.<br />
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The Power Car, note its battery boxes are different to the battery boxes under the other cars.</div>
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The Baggage Car</div>
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The Dining Car, its handbrake is made from a combination of Keiran's spider handbrake and the Model Etch 18" 6 spoke round handbrake wheels (its what I had available at the time), I dare say one of the ModelEtch 4 spoke handbrake wheels would have been a good choice.</div>
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one of the sleeping cars</div>
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As for the layout, well it hadn't seen a train for over a year or so but as I had a meeting at my place with a group I associate with a few months ago I put the Southern Aurora aside, for a short while, so I could concentrate on the layout & at least got it running again, to a degree.<br />
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Lately I've been toying with working front & rear red & white marker lights on a Traino 32 and an Austrains 36, but that will be for another post, hopefully sooner rather than later.<br />
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Until next time.</div>
railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-16032904207870721052013-05-04T17:36:00.002-07:002013-05-06T04:04:11.792-07:00Sometimes the Gods Smile on usOver the last 5 - 10 years or so I've been keeping a lookout for details I can find out about the parts of the Mudgee line that I am modelling. Thankfully, whilst employed by my previous employer, I was fortunate enough to check out the remains of the Portland Cement site, as well as Portland being the subject of one of the Byways editions. Mudgee on the other hand has been a different kettle of fish, John Parker has been a great help with some of the Mudgee information & especially with regards to modelling the station at Portland and I've made the road trip up to Mudgee a few times but unfortunately whilst the Station & goods shed are still there, the loco depot and all it's infrastructure, except the Seller turntable, have been demolished, and while there are a few photos floating around there was not, to my knowledge, any 'decent' photos that are 'suitable' to help me with what I am hoping to achieve. That all changed a little while ago.<br />
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So lets step back in time a few weeks.<br />
I recently attended the SCMRA conventions put on by the Epping club at their Dence Park centre (I've been to a few of these before and find them well worth attending & I hope to get to more of them), during one of the talks I heard a bit of banter about the coal stage at Mudgee between John Parker (one of the presenters) and a couple of guys in the audience & thought to myself that I need to get in touch with the guys having that discussion. About a week later I got some contact details from a mate (thanks Marcus) and then made arrangements to meetup with one of the gents who was involved with that discussion.<br />
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The contact details I was given was for a gent named Tim Stewart (who was involved with the Abeckett's Creek layout many years ago) who Marcus said is building a layout based on the areas between Capertee & Mudgee, I rang & introduced myself, explained what I was hoping to achieve and asked if he had any photos or other details of the Mudgee area, mainly the loco depot and especially the surrounding railway buildings (loco inspectors office etc), Tim said yes he did have some research material that might be useful & invited me to go to his place to see what he had. So I toddled off there one day after work, all I can say is WOW - not only did he have a good selection of research photos & plans, but also what a great layout, there was Mudgee in all it's glory (and certainly done better than I will be able to as I don't have the length to do it 'properly'), as well as a couple of other stations. After a great night discussing Mudgee, the real thing and the layout, Tim pulled out a photo album chock a block full of photos and a few plans, and said I was welcome to copy whatever I needed. Tim's photos date back to the late 1980's and a smattering of photos from the 1970's - more than what I had and a goldmine of details showing what was there.<br />
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I've included a few photos from Tim's layout (with his permission) and while they can't do it justice (I took them with an iPhone 4s) I hope they convey the atmosphere of this layout somewhat.<br />
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Capertee Station<br />
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Capertee Goods yard<br />
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Mudgee Station, Looking towards Sydney<br />
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Mudgee Station from the turntable (it's a scratchbuilt Sellers) thru to the Station area.<br />
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Level Crossing just on the down side of Mudgee station.<br />
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I'm not sure if there any plans for it but I hope that the AMRM covers this layout in the future.<br />
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So until next time, Ciao.<br />
<br />railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-70605353332943396912013-03-04T04:47:00.000-08:002013-03-04T04:47:06.658-08:00More Southern Aurora ModelsWhilst I had my brief stay in the west I managed to progress on the Southern Aurora models a bit more, I managed to get the BCS Lounge car, the MHN Baggage car & PHN Power car reasonably assembled to the same stage, the sides are all basically complete, roofs modified and glued in place but the end have only been done as far as the Structural End, the cosmetic end still have to be made as does the floors & underframes, let alone the interior detailing. <br />
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Side on shot of the BCS<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">And a couple of photos of the MHN</span><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">And the PHN - I've ended up re-doing the porthole window in the luggage door as this version looked a bit too big when I compared it to photos I had.</span><br />
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I've also included a couple of photos showing the sequence of modifying the roof hatch area to make it more realistic using Ian's method, it not that hard to do and the shortened A/C hatch is certainly noticeable and in my opinion well worth the small extra effort involved.<br />
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You can see a square piece of styrene to the top right hand side of the A/C hatch (& also in the roof shots above), these are the pieces under the roof vents as mentioned in Ian's articles and they are pretty easy to do following Ian's instructions, having seen Ian's models with this detail they do make a difference & again a pretty easy thing to do.<br />
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At this stage I'm currently working on the remaining sleeping cars (LAN, DAM & NAMs) trying to get them to the same stage as the other cars so I can complete them all together, so far the sides have been assembled, but that's it, roofs etc still to go. The small windows near the ends of the LAN's have been made by 'cutting & shutting' so to speak, the window surrounds from the surplus windows in the end doors and then letting them into holes cut into the sides, Ian's originals where holes that were drilled & filed to the correct size, I mentioned to Ian I thought this might provide a better end result as it would give the small windows a surround like the rest of the windows & I'm certainly happy with the end result as all the windows now have matching surrounds and whilst I am nowhere near glazing yet whilst I was at Coffs Harbour for work back in Nov 2011 I called into the Plastics Factory that was mentioned in the Kamilaroi blog (I think) to pick up some 20th styrene and and thinking what Ian had said about the CD covers not being the best to work with, asked them if they had any clear plastic I could experiment with, they sold me some 1mm clear poly-carbonate clear sheeting offcut and as Ian mentions it certainly gives a good finish, it's reasonably easy to cut and finish to size. Hopefully by the time they're all done they'll look as good as Ian Black's models. <br />
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At the moment I'm scratchbuilding some of the underbody detailing bits and pieces, so far the battery box has been made & I'm currently making the "boxes" that hold some of the underbody parts (Air Conditioning gear, Electrical items etc) I figure out it's going to be easier to make one part and then cast up the rest rather than making heaps individually. Since I started to compose this post I have cast some parts up. Some of the castings are shown in the following photos, I should be able to cast enough of these for the number of unit I need (I hope) and whilst it's a slightly messy procedure I do think that making the polyurethane castings is the way to go when one has to make more than a few of the same item. I use a re-cycled Fridge compressor as a vacuum pump (not the best option but it does the job pretty much) which I use to de-air the rubber when making the moulds and also vacuum or pressure cast the polyurethane when making the castings - I'm pretty happy with the end results, and it's a fairly cheap process using the recycled equipment (vacuum pump etc).<br />
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Battery Box Master</div>
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Some early castings - electrical cabinet box on the left and Air Conditioning condensor box on the right<br />
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Talking about the underframes I purchased some 2BS bogies from Eureka and intend to fit them to some of the Southern Aurora carriages, should make it easy to set them up for interior lighting as they already have the lighting pickups included, now have to setup the modified Lima 2BU lookalike bogies, I think Ian mentions putting brass bearings and running wires from the bearings for electrical connections, sounds like a good idea to me and something I'll experiment with.<br />
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The layout has not progressed any further which I'm comfortable with because at this stage I intend to finish my version of the Southern Aurora which I'm hoping to have done by the end of summer (which is getting closer & closer and I've still got no further - ahh Family commitments - Well Summer officially finished a few days back so I guess I missed that date :-)) so I can then start back on the layout in Autumn (not so hot then and I really want to get the Southern Aurora finished) at which point I hope to start to replace the remaining scratch built point motors with the Servo type of point motors using the TAM Valley decoders, I think I mentioned in a previous post that the old point motors will be pressed into service powering some semaphore signals I've made.<br />
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Well that the plan, now to see if it comes to fruition.<br />
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That's about it for now, not a lot to show for the time, but for me it's been quite a dramatic year for other reasons, but this year will hopefully be better.railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-68926268976465143042012-09-30T06:38:00.001-07:002012-10-02T05:30:54.601-07:00Back Home<pre wrap=""> </pre>
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Big ol' jet airliner take me back home (Photo from Jetphoto.net, but it was who I flew with & the type of plane I flew on)</div>
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Well my brief sojourn in Perth has come to an end all to quick as I had to come back to Sydney unexpectedly, my wife is very happy (well she is actually the reason I had to come home, but that's a story for another day, maybe) and the kids were delighted to have me home (though not sure if that still holds true :-) but for me my stay in the West came to an end much to quick and unfortunately whilst I did get to sample some of the local delights, I certainly did not see anywhere near what I had intended to, both from a modelling perspective and a general perspective, though it meant I got a chance to go to the AMRA 50th anniversary exhibition held at the E.G Whitlam centre in Liverpool which I had resigned myself to missing out on (costs twice as much to fly at that time as compared to a few weeks earlier, or later, I wonder why that is) the down side is that I had hoped to get to a 'local' exhibition down at Albany which would have been a neat trip for a weekend. </div>
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Next time, and I hope there will be a next time,
I hope to sample more of the local sites which was difficult this time as I was limited to public transport, speaking of which I'm quite impressed with the idea of some of the suburban lines going down the centre of the freeway.</div>
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As I am a member of the NMRA, I took advantage of that membership to attend a couple of the meetings and meet some of the local members, who made me feel most welcome, and I must make a special mention of Alan Burrough, the Div 4 super who went out of his way to drive me to the meetings, a gesture that was really appreciated & shows the benefits of belonging to an organisation such as the NMRA, or AMRA which also has a national presence. One of the members who hosted a meeting was Phil Knife(MMR), unfortunately he was in the midst of moving and so his layout was stripped bare ready to be moved to its new home (another local Modeller has purchased it I believe), but a sample of Phil's modelling is evident in the following photo of a WAGR 'R' class that Phil scratch built to SN3 1/2 scale, using a mixture of Styrene for the superstructure and Brass/Nickel Silver for the chassis, some really nice modelling.<br />
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The other meeting I attended was at Frank Goode's (MMR) place, a sample of his modelling skills is displayed in the following set of photos :<br />
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And the view one gets when Frank opens up the door to the layout room, rather nifty I think (pardon the sideon view, can't figure it how to import it vertically.<br />
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I've been told that there is a fairly good contingent of NSW modellers over in the West, unfortunately I did not really get a chance to meet any
though I did manage to get to the AMRM clubrooms near Bassendean and saw the Swan View layout first hand, unfortunately none of the structures were on the layout as they were boxed and put away so as to minimise damages, a very good idea, they also had a range of HO/OO American & British models which were very nice, and a really nice 'O' gauge layout :<br />
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When I knew I was definitely coming home I hired a car for my last weekend, this gave me the opportunity to see a few railway related items I would not have seen otherwise, one was a visit to Whiteman Park where they have a purpose built tourist 2' (I think) narrow gauge railway (Bennett Brooke Railway - <a href="http://www.bbr.org.au/">www.bbr.org.au</a> ), they do have steam there (including a couple of South African ng15 2-8-2, unfortunately they are under repair but are hopeful of having at least one back & running in the not too distant future) as well as some other smaller steamers, but unfortunately they were restricted to diesel running due to a bushfire which was being mopped up as I was there, so our trusty stead for the day was a Gemco Funkey PW27 (Wyndham). Whilst travelling in the passenger cars I asked the Guard, 'Mal' about the railroad, and whilst telling me about the history of the line he asked where I was from, when I said Sydney & that I was returning home the next day he then contacted the driver, Scott & arranged for me to have a cab ride, so my planned 1/2 hour trip ended up lasting a very pleasant 2 hours, so thank you to Mal & Scott for making this visitor from the east have a great day.<br />
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I also went down to Dwellingup to visit the Hotham Valley Tourist Railway (<a href="http://www.hothamvalleyrailway.com.au/">http://www.hothamvalleyrailway.com.au/</a>), I had decided not to go for a ride as I was due to fly out later that afternoon & did not want to take any risks, but I still had a great time looking at the steamer in service (a WAGR 'W' class?) and watching it as it worked its way back up the hillside.<br />
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From there I hightailed it back to Perth, there must've been a major accident in the opposite direction because I noticed that the freeway was blocked for at least 7 -8 Km and I remember thinking I'm glad I'm not stuck in that as I could have missed my flight. I then stopped in at the Castledare Miniature Railway (<a href="http://www.castledare.com.au/">http://www.castledare.com.au/</a>), they only had diesels running but still nice to see.<br />
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Quite ironic I travelled all the way to the west coast & still saw a 44, admittedly, a model (& it looked quite nice)<br />
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To me, one of the highlights of my stay in the West though was nothing to do with Railways but something that happened a few years ago now and have been wanting to see for many years now, as the PM of the day said, any boss that sacks someone today is a bum, or words to that effect, if that didn't give it away this should:<br />
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And that fabulous winged keel</div>
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Australia II, which won the America's cup many years ago, is on display at Freemantle in the Maritime museum, to me well worth seeing, as was the Collins class submarine, HMAS Ovens, that is open for a tour, well worth doing and certainly gives an appreciation for what our submariners go thru to defend us.<br />
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I guess I should also mention that I managed to do a bit of modelling as well whilst I was in the west and now I have the Southern Aurora Lounge car (BCS), Diner (RMS), Baggage car (MHN) and Power van (PHN) built to the basic shell stage(sides, structural end and roofs) , that can be a story for the next blog, but those that attended Liverpool on the Saturday would have seen Ian Black's model of the Southern Aurora running around the Waterfall layout & they looked great.<br />
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Well that's it for now.<br />
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Cheers Alex.</div>
railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-86298527852418874162012-07-02T06:30:00.000-07:002012-07-02T06:30:15.594-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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So, what's this photo got to do with the Mudgee Line, quite a bit
it turns out, and then again nothing at all. The above photo of a sunset
from a beach looking over the ocean is one which I would have thought I might take one day on holidays,
but not from a place that I'm working from - why is that, well because
I'm based in the Western Sydney area, which is where the Mudgee layout is, but that photo was taken at Scarborough
Beach, Perth, Western Australia, just a few K's west of Sydney :-)</div>
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A little while ago the company I used to work for made me/my
role redundant, unfortunately the only work I could find was based in Perth,
the other side of the continent, and I must say though I've only been here for
a short while, it is quite a nice place to be, I just hope I get a chance to
sample the local modelling scene (Ideas anyone??).</div>
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One would think that with redundancy one would have a heap
of time to be able to spend on the layout, unfortunately that's not how it's
worked out for me, whilst I have been doing a bit of modelling, it's not really been for the Mudgee line (more on that shortly) I have not been able to do anything much on the layout (but I have managed to replace about 2/3rd of the old point motors with the RC Servo based point motors), mainly because
of other commitments.</div>
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So what have I been doing.</div>
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<br /></div>
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At the last convention at Loftus I saw a demonstration of modifications
to the Lima Southern Aurora cars to make them more realistic by a gent named
Ian Black, after initial discussions with Ian I decided to have a go at making
a 10 car Southern Aurora set, whilst it never ran to Mudgee (except as a
preservation tour or three as far as I am aware and even then probably with not
all the 'correct' cars) it has been a favourite of mine and I have always
wanted to model it, my original intentions was to just have a go at making the
power and baggage cars and leave it at that, Allan Brown showed me his models
based on the Lima Southern Aurora cars where he lowered the windows to make
them more realistic and I thought that would be a good move and discussed with
Allan what would be involved in modifying the models, before I started Allan
told me about a very good set of models of the Southern Aurora he had seen at
the Armidale convention and he thought that whilst there was a fair bit of work
involved that they did make up into a very nice set, after seeing Ian's
rendition of the Southern Aurora set at the last Loftus convention I decided to
have a go. Thus based on Ian's descriptions at the convention and via phone
conversations, I have started making my versions based upon Ian's information.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The above photos are of the NAM & RMS, whilst not yet finished (long way to go actually) they have been a lot of fun to get to the stage they are in in the photo, currently I am working on some more LANs, NAMs & DAMs, and have bought some of the models west with me to hopefully continue with. </div>
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<br /></div>
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I'm hoping that whilst I'm working over in Perth that I
might be able to do more modelling, time will tell, but if I have anywhere
near the amount of free time I think I'll have, I should have the 10 cars finished in about 3
- 4 months.</div>
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<br /></div>
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So whilst the Mudgee line may not be worked on for quite a
while from now on, I'm hoping that I will still be able to do some form of
modelling in one form or another.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Well that's it for now, so until next time I bid you adieu.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cheers Alex...</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com2Rotary Park, Glenmore Park NSW 2745, Australia-33.781001980897614 150.66702051538084-33.78485048089761 150.66451301538083 -33.777153480897617 150.66952801538085tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-1345157172870685802011-12-31T20:29:00.000-08:002011-12-31T21:45:56.460-08:00Changing DirectionsIn one of my earlier posts I mentioned that I scratchbuilt my point motors :<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqZdZr5uXYnrv_3TTZ318jQT9F0kqYKQIm0Fy-NUxLOv4__Z1aJTuvPy8IbXKi19yfRvbUds2iIkQm4tDfVdjt-h74_mJiYkY_KAygDzN5Ts5CeotlfyEkz_tYLm-TUUpX2HxK3EC5W-I/s1600/scratchbuilt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqZdZr5uXYnrv_3TTZ318jQT9F0kqYKQIm0Fy-NUxLOv4__Z1aJTuvPy8IbXKi19yfRvbUds2iIkQm4tDfVdjt-h74_mJiYkY_KAygDzN5Ts5CeotlfyEkz_tYLm-TUUpX2HxK3EC5W-I/s320/scratchbuilt.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>using a method shown to me by Allan G., whilst I have been reasonably pleased with the end result, they do have some shortcoming - the main one is that they are not adjustable in their movement - it's all or nothing, and they do not have any DCC functionality, sure I could get a DCC stationary/accessory decoder but that would not have fixed their other limitation of no flexibility in their movement range, and whilst in the main they function OK, there are a few which are noisy, and others which just do not move far enough, leaving a small gap between the point blade and the stock rail which can lead to some rolling stock derailing, so I have been toying with the idea of replacing them with something better for a while now. <br />
<br />
I've always been impressed by the servo motor (from the RC hobby) point motors<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAxqADZTiw5GCmK_AKqhE5Eg2gpD_x34eTxUl8Wutj1VXyBQC8fIcNj1uBuazMXaXuPPOCBTV-9W1b55raAN7GLseHZ5UDQskFKAzMR9EA48yUWMdrXRJbBhiJWb0TCvQB_QjCg0F5fLs/s1600/servo1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAxqADZTiw5GCmK_AKqhE5Eg2gpD_x34eTxUl8Wutj1VXyBQC8fIcNj1uBuazMXaXuPPOCBTV-9W1b55raAN7GLseHZ5UDQskFKAzMR9EA48yUWMdrXRJbBhiJWb0TCvQB_QjCg0F5fLs/s320/servo1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">9G servo mounted in a bracket and actuator fitted ready for under point deployment</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
they are a very small and compact unit , compare the size of the scratchbuilt unit to the servo based unit in the photo below :<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCqoAvPnvzFYcspdIhnG5a88BrJ0Cmfhvos_MW1qsaKxEknGbSdJQAXV_WXCBBVaOs30iOjjtxegi0q7l4sipETK8TUyQ6W3Zn5cu43BAsW51RZWNndOIjo_RsUPIBw5moGcqAJhSG9YU/s1600/both-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCqoAvPnvzFYcspdIhnG5a88BrJ0Cmfhvos_MW1qsaKxEknGbSdJQAXV_WXCBBVaOs30iOjjtxegi0q7l4sipETK8TUyQ6W3Zn5cu43BAsW51RZWNndOIjo_RsUPIBw5moGcqAJhSG9YU/s320/both-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
but have thought them to be a bit dear, then whilst at one of the CCWN meeting held at Rowan place (Main South) I noticed that Rowan had some servo motors acting as point motors, when I asked Rowan how he found them he said that the original decoders he got where a bit 'chatty' and figured out close to $100 per four, to me $25 per point is a bit on the dear side, he then mentioned that he had just got a set of decoder/drivers from Tam Valley in the States and found these to be quite good, and reasonably priced (Rowan was using the 'Singlets' at the time).<br />
<br />
Upon investigating the costs I figured out that if I bought the Quad Pic boards and the servo motors in quantity it would figure out to about $10 per point, that includes DCC capability, compared to the $7-$8 it was costing me to scratch build the point motors (with no DCC capabilities) I figured that out to be a good deal, pretty well a no brainer.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH9LIzvObB3amxcT_ZHjpIMyVvoARcPnpvzm_78SEHfw1da0OdcBBxowxp2k30RcOul8FSTFx-LlRSqw2YG-M2kPwpp5DiYoGkcR1HaW_RsTHQD-qDEwspG252Y00Uc4fmf6d5IeiBOKc/s1600/quads.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH9LIzvObB3amxcT_ZHjpIMyVvoARcPnpvzm_78SEHfw1da0OdcBBxowxp2k30RcOul8FSTFx-LlRSqw2YG-M2kPwpp5DiYoGkcR1HaW_RsTHQD-qDEwspG252Y00Uc4fmf6d5IeiBOKc/s320/quads.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Pair of Quad Pic servo drivers/decoders, these control up to 4 individual servos (or more if paired as crossovers)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I found a good article in the 3rd Quarter, 2009 edition of the free Model Railroad Hobbist EZine <a href="http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/">http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com</a> which describes the Tam Valley decoders <a href="http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/">http://www.tamvalleydepot.com</a> and how to connect the servos to the layout, whilst I did not follow their method to the letter(they recommend using double sided tape to fix the servos to the layout, I prefer to use screws as I think that gives a better fix), it certainly has some good ideas which I have used.<br />
<br />
Seeing I had a requirement for more point motors I figured out that I would be better getting these rather than continuing along the scratch building path because they give me flexibility in their movement range, they have DCC inbuilt let alone that fact that it save me time in not having to scratch build any more point motors, I would still have to make the mounting brackets, but that is a fairly quick task which took all of about 2 hours to make sufficient brackets to mount 36 servos. I have made two types of mounting brackets, one is made from a 25mm Plastic angle (about $9.00 for a 2.4M length) which will be used where the point motor is not directly underneath the point as it has slightly more clearance than the other style of bracket :<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7-8Y5qWY9h6gJwN1VZsFb5lNmXV_lycfolHVqHlPYny2cxHp3pEQ7GL3sJjWUf1X8pAhp_Vr-0U_qqb6vGspwFQHfgxA-6SZKmuD1V2OMn2mBLp40AbA4H8zzG0MIbmvJ1FRCD6iu0nI/s1600/servos-side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7-8Y5qWY9h6gJwN1VZsFb5lNmXV_lycfolHVqHlPYny2cxHp3pEQ7GL3sJjWUf1X8pAhp_Vr-0U_qqb6vGspwFQHfgxA-6SZKmuD1V2OMn2mBLp40AbA4H8zzG0MIbmvJ1FRCD6iu0nI/s320/servos-side.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<br />
the other is made from a 'U' shaped piece of plastic moulding sold at Bunnings as a plastic floor covering cap for about $3 per 2.4M length, this will be used where the point motor is directly below the point,<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF-PyV3zwXoF-xW1VsnKUGacGkgdkXLxhwt7vGb09sxTzgFNID37kDdMCqScHbZB58UVbSpnqKdynNg8dbgGJtvDE6zmsnURRE29QlULMPZs3mSctuFk3CGrfXaoOKrYYimAN2e6OTEmo/s1600/servo1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> </a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7WkRo_5FaiEgoszfODNJX5-gg8p9kr25zOkwh11v6pChtdlojtuIpSsBunGrj9gPed0UUeNE0cUnaP0eQR7XCD_OGuX5-IHqV8Kc9yI_3gHFDZs__OCwKBM5bEjZGTZqyYXChBqP_b7s/s1600/servo-under.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7WkRo_5FaiEgoszfODNJX5-gg8p9kr25zOkwh11v6pChtdlojtuIpSsBunGrj9gPed0UUeNE0cUnaP0eQR7XCD_OGuX5-IHqV8Kc9yI_3gHFDZs__OCwKBM5bEjZGTZqyYXChBqP_b7s/s320/servo-under.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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the 'U' type bracket has a channel of about 13mm in width into which a servo fits quite nicely, an end on shot of both types of brackets is below:<br />
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You may have noticed that the actuating wire is 'threaded' through the plastic lever, this is quite easy to do as shown in the photo below:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip8pczUudmItI_BFnkIpmjU5E4uBLgTU8yfFiBUNWpMwloBqgRZEd8_keTy6IQLf8tUESX1u31m2c0GJgd6PgOVkFE59PY45GlRf7jwN4DN9OedPTufztuzAEJhxkkFUJdhAp4oPqroQY/s1600/servo-wirebends.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip8pczUudmItI_BFnkIpmjU5E4uBLgTU8yfFiBUNWpMwloBqgRZEd8_keTy6IQLf8tUESX1u31m2c0GJgd6PgOVkFE59PY45GlRf7jwN4DN9OedPTufztuzAEJhxkkFUJdhAp4oPqroQY/s320/servo-wirebends.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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So far I've replaced about a dozen point motors and am very happy with the result to date. As for the scratch built point motors I currently have on the workbench and those currectly in place in the layout that will be replaced with the servo motors, I will probably end up using these replaced point motors to drive the lower quadrant signals I have.<br />
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I hope Santa was kind to all (Looks like the Jolly Gent has put down for a set of Euruka BSV's for me:-) and that the New Year is a prosperous and good one.<br />
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Well that wraps this little session up, now back to fitting more point motors.railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com0Rotary Park, Glenmore Park NSW 2745, Australia-33.781501358021636 150.66762133020018-33.785349858021632 150.66511383020017 -33.777652858021639 150.67012883020018tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-71696651135655082472011-11-11T04:37:00.000-08:002011-11-11T04:37:21.582-08:00Maldon / Castlemaine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGFMwuchYiuYWCLBb3EzY84ik_cGZsRopio-BcQqC_46NnIyV51wGmDu16_Yvv2geRDlm4GIlSgjBN1Kunuhui98E5CXWHgdstwk3jpLvz0b9JfV5rIHIpNOGZpj2BeeFnFzHwe28fCGE/s1600/DSC_0204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGFMwuchYiuYWCLBb3EzY84ik_cGZsRopio-BcQqC_46NnIyV51wGmDu16_Yvv2geRDlm4GIlSgjBN1Kunuhui98E5CXWHgdstwk3jpLvz0b9JfV5rIHIpNOGZpj2BeeFnFzHwe28fCGE/s320/DSC_0204.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>I really should have posted something about this back in August, but didn't really think about it until just recently whilst looking for some photos & came upon some I had taken recently. Mind you it really has nothing to so with the Mudgee line, then again neither has the BGM Vic J that I have to build.<br />
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Back in August a mate of mine and I went down to Melbourne for the Caulfield exhibition, the exhibition was worth flying down for & very enjoyable, also picked up one of the NSW BKX car transporter kits from Strath Hobbies (as recently review in AMRM), just have to find the time to put it together amongst all the other stuff I want to do - maybe another retirement project along with the J.<br />
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We had 2 days down there so visited the exhibition on the Saturday and then did some travelling on the Sunday, went to Puffing Billy in the morning & saw 2 trains depart, then hightailed it to Maldon to see the Maldon / Castlemaine (Victorian Goldfields Railway) steamer run, we made it too late to catch the 'J' to Castlemaine but had a great time none the less exploring Maldon station & it's surrounds - especially it's selection of wagons :-.<br />
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Maldon township is great - like stepping back in time & has some great old time looking shops etc, unfortunately we did not have much time to explore the area, but we've slated it for a re-visit next time we head down that way.<br />
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I had heard that the station itself was burnt down a few years ago & I wasn't really sure what to expect and was very pleasantly suprised to see it had been rebuilt to what I can only assume was it's former glory.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgaHGG2p_mC0Cossh5IOtVPBh-6x5mw_fbgJOeEhMOuwfK-AWXaq03utWMUTAJp1b6jRsZcvu_bn8ddMjhE4cBVstDKPNRad3VH4A3hkYyb0shxhQ1MVAEyXMvxxu9bCEVJI0CfdeuT38/s1600/DSC_0001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgaHGG2p_mC0Cossh5IOtVPBh-6x5mw_fbgJOeEhMOuwfK-AWXaq03utWMUTAJp1b6jRsZcvu_bn8ddMjhE4cBVstDKPNRad3VH4A3hkYyb0shxhQ1MVAEyXMvxxu9bCEVJI0CfdeuT38/s320/DSC_0001.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>If you get a chance to visit it's well worthwhile a trip and only about an hour or so from Melbourne itself, I know I'll be visiting again and probably staying closer to there so to have more time to explore.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxtY_yHeomp4Wncug8nDdkNpY0I4THereTJpBhU9xQHloJaVSWKeNluumPEsNhaJ_HPJRAV3_v2ev0IlEkL_0W-ZM1IFZBQSVI8cTOV4UQEkDUYlUI8Wy4n5v4e4AWPGV9HBZQPrEDgoo/s1600/DSC_0214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxtY_yHeomp4Wncug8nDdkNpY0I4THereTJpBhU9xQHloJaVSWKeNluumPEsNhaJ_HPJRAV3_v2ev0IlEkL_0W-ZM1IFZBQSVI8cTOV4UQEkDUYlUI8Wy4n5v4e4AWPGV9HBZQPrEDgoo/s320/DSC_0214.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Well that's it for now.<br />
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Cheers Alex...railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-32665075477433985582011-11-04T16:47:00.000-07:002011-11-04T16:49:48.259-07:00The RoundhouseA little while ago I started making a roundhouse for one of my station on the lower part of the layout, of which the turntable was described in an earlier post, which is roughly based on what was at Orange - 5 stall saw tooth, the only photo I have is from the Byways series of books - hope the guys don't mind if I include a pic showing what I'm trying to achieve - well worth getting as they have a heap of great information.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs0F-RYTlcEoTO1J6vEAiXJ48g5WSrl_GoeBgzRHPhl98TnExc7sVNYBcvtRwdTW91vt8p8e7sv3yrp2WTrKUiSn5Y7-1vZw1U9QT4CJZhudKpay__XNVsTDDUMJz1ORd3vvW_ezX_Aws/s1600/roundhouse+overall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs0F-RYTlcEoTO1J6vEAiXJ48g5WSrl_GoeBgzRHPhl98TnExc7sVNYBcvtRwdTW91vt8p8e7sv3yrp2WTrKUiSn5Y7-1vZw1U9QT4CJZhudKpay__XNVsTDDUMJz1ORd3vvW_ezX_Aws/s320/roundhouse+overall.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo from the Byways collection</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I made the base from 40 thou (1mm) styrene and some slaters brick siding for the low brick exterior, whilst I'm happy enough with the end result it was a real pain in the proverbial cutting in the pits - and they're still probably not accurate, but they'll do me.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpV0dPY1-Xl8wf46Go8lQ9nTtIyITa_h6JAR0hbdaNxwaBtiuPCCXLdrQ7ljtp-DzNfs639C1YDD8BuYQZCrMpwS5lY9-5r3i0ajWG2gF0S2xY0mB2hqsedlR0mB0Qupp96JylPRDZygs/s1600/DSC_0896-small1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpV0dPY1-Xl8wf46Go8lQ9nTtIyITa_h6JAR0hbdaNxwaBtiuPCCXLdrQ7ljtp-DzNfs639C1YDD8BuYQZCrMpwS5lY9-5r3i0ajWG2gF0S2xY0mB2hqsedlR0mB0Qupp96JylPRDZygs/s320/DSC_0896-small1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
You may notice some metalic pins at the bottom, they are countersunk M3 machine screw which are araldited into the roundhouse base which then go into corresponing holes in the baseboard, washers & nuts are then use to fix in place, hopefully this will keep everying aligned.<br />
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About a month or so after I started I attended the Epping/Thornleigh exhibition & saw that Antons/Uneek had released a new kit for a simliar roundhouse, if I had not started on my one I may have bought the kit plus an extra 2 stalls as it would probably have been a quicker option (see Ray P's Bylong blog for some good discussions on it), however as I had already started I simply kept going.<br />
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I photocopied & scaled the drawings in Byways as a guide & taped it to a piece of blue insulation foam, covered it in glad wrap so the glue would not stick to the plan & then used drawing pins to help in placing the timbers to make the roundhouse roof trusses & sides - a simple enough jig and worked good enough for the 27 odd roof frames & the 2 sides I had to make.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsuBjFwSSO2xEkqA-r5qSi3wBxNohMtNblnG8CK2ca27-BmNy6-VE8tR6TvLBsn0L1EC9AaLyaEOylZ-pRsSsNm1x7GG_WtQAPWhVoAbUf0lZjh8-5B0GUhrv-O0-xxt0NrWQj5eb21Yc/s1600/DSC_0017-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsuBjFwSSO2xEkqA-r5qSi3wBxNohMtNblnG8CK2ca27-BmNy6-VE8tR6TvLBsn0L1EC9AaLyaEOylZ-pRsSsNm1x7GG_WtQAPWhVoAbUf0lZjh8-5B0GUhrv-O0-xxt0NrWQj5eb21Yc/s320/DSC_0017-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foam jig and some of the trusses made assembled into the model</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Most of the scale timbers are by Kapler which I bought from Gwydir's, unfortunately I ran out of the roof rafters timber (I used 2 * 3), so bought some from another shop which where marked by the manufacturer as 2 * 3, even worse when I placed them on the roof it became clear that they are actually smaller in size, not by much and hopefully not noticeable when I eventually clad the roof with corrugated iron.<br />
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Talking of which I bought a 'corrugated iron maker' from Brunel hobbies whilst down at the Caulfield exhibition, it's basically a 2 piece perspex jig in which a piece of aluminium is placed in the larger piece & the corresponding piece of the jig is drawn against the aluminium to press in the corrugations:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2ZrtGkR5jx6eUJFDzhZfKMtOocmsWIkTLz43805zVq0Icw41IoRdzgc8_l8TvR4V5gE3lP7o37ueQnUI0R10LJjQx_kmnRiSWUI2l1oFhHC7MPDeNOl7hvega8ugNmIjt6iMxdAm6cKU/s1600/brunels+corrugate+iron+maker.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2ZrtGkR5jx6eUJFDzhZfKMtOocmsWIkTLz43805zVq0Icw41IoRdzgc8_l8TvR4V5gE3lP7o37ueQnUI0R10LJjQx_kmnRiSWUI2l1oFhHC7MPDeNOl7hvega8ugNmIjt6iMxdAm6cKU/s320/brunels+corrugate+iron+maker.bmp" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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- only hassel I have is that the aluminum supplied, whilst thicker than alfoil is still fairly thin and thus fragile and also ends up curling a bit, but it can be straightened up quite easily, I experimented with some foil from the seal in the top of Milo tins & I found it too thick for my liking, my daughter thinks the foils she uses for hairdressing is possibly in between the two, so I'll experiment with that when she gets some next (though I'll probably have to buy it for her -ahh the joys of being a Dad to an apprentice hair dresser - pitty I don't have much hair for her to practice on :-), I'll update on that little experiment as I get to it - I experimented with the seals on the Alpen Blend chocalate powder last night & found it pretty good - just gotta figure out where to get some from if the haridressing foil is not suitable.<br />
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At this stage the roof & supports are pretty well complete, the legs of the frame have a wire pin glued into then and this pin then inserts into a corresponding hole in the base of the roundhouse, hopefully this will make for reasonably accurate alignment :<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK-OWw6ZR0cogUrNwcb_iZCStiAA2ZbR_dC5i-E5inwjByTH-vlAaHgRhZ8t69hfw77VwRGpieP-t21j3xFHO8MQXCrCn0myPZAMBgu0p7EQzDH_TgeN7puC1OZBECLsLG6BKuif2Otxs/s1600/DSC_0008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK-OWw6ZR0cogUrNwcb_iZCStiAA2ZbR_dC5i-E5inwjByTH-vlAaHgRhZ8t69hfw77VwRGpieP-t21j3xFHO8MQXCrCn0myPZAMBgu0p7EQzDH_TgeN7puC1OZBECLsLG6BKuif2Otxs/s320/DSC_0008.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifbhIKD6uEUaw2Weh0Ue-vYDpg-Hzht8sT_ZlUDafaC76K9BxlntqqMcmAEAjqqXwiLgBR1-l2zJadtVoZ6xhl4VzIOPkS4s288Q9CUrqB3Qa0DgtmJHl_eJq5mo_8AvOzDzTido8CbX0/s1600/DSC_0900-small1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifbhIKD6uEUaw2Weh0Ue-vYDpg-Hzht8sT_ZlUDafaC76K9BxlntqqMcmAEAjqqXwiLgBR1-l2zJadtVoZ6xhl4VzIOPkS4s288Q9CUrqB3Qa0DgtmJHl_eJq5mo_8AvOzDzTido8CbX0/s320/DSC_0900-small1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
I've also started on the side wall frames and hope to fit them in the next week or two.After that is the End glass & louvers treatment and then the smoke flues and finally clading of the building with corrugated iron. One thing I do want to do, similar to what Ray P has done for his roundhouse, is to include interior lighting, I have some station lampshades which I am thinking of using along with some SMD LEDs, and it's something I need to allow for before I go much further.<br />
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Well I guess it's not much to show for the length of time since the last update, but there it is. Hopefully the next update will be a bit sooner than this one was.railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-56543793131410854752010-12-09T23:30:00.000-08:002010-12-10T02:38:52.377-08:00More Modelling<div>I had been doing a bit of 'modelling' a few months ago rather than layout building - been having fun with that even though I had to call it quits for the last few months due to other commitments, hoping to get back to it after Christmas, some of the stuff I have been working on is described below.<br />
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<strong>Austrains 35 Class</strong><br />
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Had a bit of fun with this one - fairly nice model but I wanted to do a bit of work on it along the lines of working marker lights & cab light, I asked QSI via the QSI Yahoo groups if I could access the unused functions on their standard small steam decoder as used in the 35 & they advised I contact QSI Solutions, between Gerry Pruss of QSI & QSI Solutions we managed to get the marker lights to work. For the tender I used a 3mm Golden White LED and glued .5mm fibre optics into the LED - I then drilled out the tender marker lights and fed the fibres thru these. The front lights where a bit more difficult, I ended up using nano LEDS I purchased from NGineering in the States, I had to run some wires from the tender to the loco, at this stage it they are still a rough connection, I have bought some micro connectors made by TCS from MRC in Blacktown and they will be used to connect the loco & tender together, eventually.<br />
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Whilst mucking around with the lights I also ended up detailing the model a bit more - I ran the lubricating lines from the compressor up the boiler to the cab, also from the generator to the cab, a whistle cord to the cab etc, I also modified the tender slightly to be more in keeping with what I am after. Anyways I've included a few photos showing what I have done - will hopefully get round to painting the model soon.<br />
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<strong>Walthers turntable</strong><br />
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Mate of mine was buying a Walthers built up Turntable from the State's and asked if I wanted one, he thought it could be made into a reasonable representative of the NSWGR 75' turntable. So once the models arrived I modified my one to be more NSW like - though not perfect it's good enough for me. What I ended up doing was re-planking the deck, making a more NSW like turntable shed - actually made 3 of them as 3 of us ended up buying one turntable each, making & installing a set of airtanks under the deck - still to go is the centre arch. Like I said I'm pretty happy the way the model has ended up - some piks follow.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Ohh well, that's it for now.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Cheers Alex.,.</div></div>railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-56876950876874930152010-08-02T22:17:00.000-07:002010-08-03T07:10:28.166-07:00Layout Happenings<div>Well I've spent the last few months going from one project to another to another, getting some things finished & others not so finished. I'll try to cover some of what I've been upto in this post.</div><br />
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<div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 130%;">The Layout</span></div><br />
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<div>I've finally gapped & insulated all the points at the frog, I used a razor saw to re-gap the gaps at the frogs and then used 10thou styrene glued into the gap to help insulate- I'm hopeful it will make a difference & help to alleviate any shorts that may have occurred due to rail expansion, as part of this bit of work I've also wired up the majority of the layout & run a limited test as wiring progressed - so far so good, I'm hoping to test the layout from go to whoa shortly. I still need to make more point motors and attach them to the layout, but I must admit if I had not made so many of them I would be using the servo motor point motors I saw in action on Rowan's Main South layout - very impressed by them, only because I have most of the components already for the remaining point motors that I won't be going down that path, though I might use the servo motors to activate some semaphore signals. I also need to clean and then wipe a graphite pencil onto the track/rail - find it makes for really good pickup quality between track & wheel.<br />
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<div>Most of the Main line points now have point motors installed but they need to be adjusted for hopefully good performance.</div><br />
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<div>I ended up using a Powerline Victorian T class to check the track - in general most things went well but there are a few things that need to be fine tuned.</div><br />
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<div>We got a new fridge a little while ago & not wanting to waste the luverley packing material I ended up cutting the the carboard packing into strips of about 100 - 150 mm (4 - 6") and used them as a fascia board template ( not my idea I read it somewhere) - I'll eventually run the scenery (when I get started on it) up to the cardboard and the cut the carboard to use as a template when cutting the real fascia board. Talking about scenery I was at the modelling the Railways of NSW at Loftus and Bob Stack of the SCR was demonstrating some of his scenery techniques and I was particularly taken by the way he sceniced his embankment - basically used some white beadfoam broken into small pieces (about 12 mm - 1/2") dipped into a thick plaster mix (Bob said it had to be thick so as to not end up being too smooth) squashed into the chicken wire and sceniced from there - I was really taken with the end result - have a look at the photos below to get an idea of what I'm talking about - as where I am thinking of using it I aleady have a scenery base of blue insulating foam down I'll have to experiment<br />
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<span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 130%;">Eureka 38</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrHodxb3XopZbDXZ61s7xnHxACyXaJSL0FoxFwKnsqP30YZmVCGDKXQONUT_bX4JrYF_P6M1wHzw1qCvv-S5i9U17p9DQhMl8CeDssnd49K_z8wET0X4w6UbAw1qjjosRnEKoTd-B_JVk/s1600/DSC_0649-finished-ds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" bx="true" height="102" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrHodxb3XopZbDXZ61s7xnHxACyXaJSL0FoxFwKnsqP30YZmVCGDKXQONUT_bX4JrYF_P6M1wHzw1qCvv-S5i9U17p9DQhMl8CeDssnd49K_z8wET0X4w6UbAw1qjjosRnEKoTd-B_JVk/s400/DSC_0649-finished-ds.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>I picked up my 2 non DCC 38's from Eureka a while ago ( I wanted to have working marker lights & so thought it better to get non DCC units & then install a DCC sound decoder that could handle the extra functions required to have working marker lights rather than putting in a second function only decoder) and started to modify non streamed lined 3813 to have DCC, working marker lights, cab light & running lights,the tender water filler hatch light and a new coal load - interesting bit of modelling & am looking forward to doing the same to the black streamlined 38, I also reversed the middle of the compressor to be 'more correct' - not sure if that is really worth the effort - especially as it's not that noticeable when the model is running. Anyways 3813 now had red/white marker lights front & back using DCC Concepts dual colour Red/White LEDs & fibre optics to the modelled marker lights, a SMT LED as the cab light and also a 3mm golden white LED running lights shining down onto the running gear and a fibre optic run from them to be used as step lights,I also cut out the steps in the side of the 38 cab to allow the lights to shine thru. After I had finished the mods it was time to weather the model to help to dull off the shiny wheels, after I had finished I showed it to a mate of mine who used to drive the things & another who used to do the maintenance on them & they both said that the wheels should have been a sort of oily browny black colour rather than the dusty dirt colour I had done - so it'll be back to the paint shop to correct that. Talking about weathering the model a problem that I had was that I had lightly masked off the footplate when weathering the driving wheels so as to not get the footplate too dirty, unfortunately when I removed the blue painter's tape I had used some of the cream lining came off with the tape, I tried to fix this up with a bow pen but it's not turned out as well as I had hoped - ohh well such is life. Anyways some piks follow.<br />
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Photo of 3813 showing the front marker lights (white but they can be red), the running lights over the valve gear, the step cutouts in the cab and the cab light shining on the tender front plate, the tender water hatch light can just be made out just behind the coal load in the tender.<br />
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Red marker lights, cab light, cab step light & tender water hatch lights all lit up<br />
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pik looking down in to the modified tender - new (lowered) coal plate and driver's lunch box - easier to see the mod in an unpainted state.<br />
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<div>Similar photo to the previous but this time the model is finished - weathered & coaled - I think the effort was worth it </div>railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-87328674762355127622010-01-05T17:11:00.000-08:002010-01-24T02:02:48.682-08:00Heat Wave<div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Last summer ('08/09) we had a few days where the mercury went over 40c, this caused the rail to buckle in the Mudgee area cause I apparently did not leave enough of a gap for rail expansion. When I got around to doing something about this the rail had contracted back to 'normal' and I thought I'd wait for another hot one to come along so I could then mark what tracks gave me problems. Guess what - no more hot days came until this summer - so what happened - nothing - I did nothing on the layout to any great degree until earlier this summer when we had a few more hot one's just before Christmas, this time I marked which tracks had buckled, took them apart and cut about 1mm of the end of the tracks in question - I had to make about 4 cuts in the Mudgee area, some more in the lower portion of the layout - Mudgee is now running OK & I'm progressing on the others. I've included a couple of photos of the track after it was taken apart but before I cut it back - you can see the track overlaps the point rails by about .5mm, hopefully the bit I have cut off the ends will have solved this problem - time will tell. <img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 214px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5423584580925244482" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7l1FinjEk3yPqi0a6lz5L_52y4sXn351-vhlPRaFUFGqSBp76veD738xmr88UK_2eE13DdIpeDgxn4bmCBn1AGXLQEbqJLiSuIOgOUD2Z9DYaY8jQdO06yCiqe1V6SDc_8IKJflcZK1Q/s320/DSC_0768.JPG" /> <img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 214px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5423586017650811090" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT9ceHybnxl7OZB5FryErmthcWhJkLVlNejELH66RFAYjOJw-37TRjWeFtcbIVWgKX_A5iVxVhA2PQlyN1CiJ4HIMTWkKOwKokloOVBBmzPsSu62FED0_nJysx-FDmH4Mt7pGlD8eKCzc/s320/DSC_0770-small.jpg" /><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />I also had a short devlop in the same area. I think that was something to do with the gaps in the points (which I cut with a razor saw) closing up and thus shorting out. I've re-cut the gaps and glued a piece of 10thou styrene in the gaps and then trimmed the styrene back to be level with the rails. Hopefully that will be it - the trains certainly seem to run OK with no shorts in this area now.<br /><br />I'm hoping for another hot day or too just to see how it all hangs together. Ahh the joys of building a layout in an attic - and yes the roof space is insulated as are the walls.<br /><br />Was just about ready to post this when well - we had a few more hot ones - was 40' a little while ago followed by a 38 day - no sign of any more buckling in the Mudgee area so I'm hoping all will be OK for the future - Now to finish the other areas that have experienced track buckling.<br /><br />That's it for now... </div></div>railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-71749451616211894322010-01-05T16:47:00.000-08:002010-01-09T23:37:48.445-08:00long time between drinks<div><br /><br /> </div><div>Well it's been a long time between drinks & I'm getting thirsty.<br /><br /><br />The layout itself has not progressed too much - too many other things to do around the house & other modelling projects.<br /><br /><br />So what has been achieved so far.<br /><br /><br />The layout now has a Walthers 90' turntable :</div><div><br /><br /></div><div></div><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 214px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5424720603687664386" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyIuWdsYeUGU36tty5rqsnJgEUpPJDl6Mhaw7RJgL1KlAD7Yjy1EnbGugHl9p1N6WPfUwnFW4CnI4FZdRq9S0-lSmBjJWYvYYtXqZYm8nKrCeXdclZMAWw-b0fK2iHwPA15yuzBctgVjs/s320/DSC_0801a.jpg" /><br /><br /><br /><div>it's in place but not yet hooked up - but I'm about to pull it out so I can detail it to be more NSW like in appearance - I'll start by painting the pit walls white and the base more a concrete colour rather than the radial weathering the pit comes with. I'm basing this on Orange and will need to scratch up the coal stage & sand house - the barracks are too big for the space I have available but I'll figure something out. You might also notice the end of an inspection pit on the left hand side of the photo - a better photo is as below:</div><br /><div></div><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 90px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5424722543847881298" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcKAgwstWcChzj3Tgjml42gXOUBswH5Gv3PftE0HEZKprs2vGqU7aE6aii30bV9xa7SW85Ve1v_qKYxXrIJ2MjBh4Gf9G7tUzRtSqN_-wVsMccSTl736oRfyyxKGkS8EkCuBfgvfsYJrs/s320/DSC_0803-a.jpg" /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div>This is a Peco inspection/ash pit which I have modified the floor by placing 2 * 40thou pieces of styrene over the existing floor, the top piece is slightly narrower then the bottom piece and glued to it, when the glue dried I then filed the sides of the top piece to merge with the bottom piece to give a rounded off finish to the sides, I then glued this to the existing Peco floor. I hope the photo explains it a whole lot better then I have (well I have only used 80 odd words & they say a picture is worth a 1,000 words).</div><div> <br /><br /> </div><div>I've also cut the slots/gaps for the inpection pits in the roundhouse roads - used a circular saw to do that with - was a bit of fun - not very tidy bit they should be ok - thankfully they will be mainly hidden in the confines of the roundhouse - whenever that is built.<br /><br />How lucky can one be - I had to go to Galong for work last November & took advantage of being down there & went to the Wagga Wagga Exhibition, from there I came home via Orange & guess what - the sand shed is still there - unfortunately my Camera's battery had died before I got there but my Phone had a good enough camera to take a few photos with - unfortunately I did not have a tape so could not take any measurements but I think I can guesstimate the sizes, ( I think the planks are about 8" wide & the vertical supports appear to be about 6" square) unless someone has the measurements that they could email me with :-)<br /><br /></div><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5423581663302171378" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-sbgVnSzCVWlpJqWe4YgOiFp3vj0AaTaAiJ5vf-qlx0KNaMlUuD3nLHyXZ0r0GpSTG0pSKtJoBXJ6ycfzPEucxjVdoPWJQ_e2HUL0GmVLlOUvM1EZezhR8sYJjCshXObNPMJ-UlH-Ji0/s320/07112009(007).jpg" /><br /><br /><br /><br />The Mudgee portion now has all it's point motors installed in the main & goods area, the loco area will probably use the wire in tube method to actuate the points - quite like it after seeing it in operation on Rowan (Main South Line) & his dad Sam (Buff Point) layouts - probably a bit cheaper & easier to set up than the point motors.<br /><br /><br /><br />The lower main line station ( a mix of Wallerawang and Wyong) has abut 80% of it's main line points motorised and I've almost finished making the next batch of point motors to power the remaining points in this station as well as the points in the other main line station, all things being equal this should be done by March / April, not sure what year though.<br /><br /><br />Well that's it for now.railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-62631698367851328142008-12-29T04:25:00.000-08:002008-12-29T06:51:59.718-08:00Layout Details<span style="font-family:arial;"><br /></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong><em>Layout Details</em></strong>.</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>HO Scale</strong>.</span><br /></span><br /></span><p><strong><span style="font-family:arial;">NSWGR</span></strong></p><p><strong><span style="font-family:arial;">Time Frame</span></strong><br /></p><br /><p><span style="font-family:arial;">two periods allowing me to model steams /diesel transition and Mid era diesels</span><br /></p><ul><li><span style="font-family:arial;">late 1950's -early 1960's</span></li><br /><li><span style="font-family:arial;">late 1970's</span></li></ul><p><span style="font-family:arial;">But I do have models which are post 1980 (let alone non NSW models) but I don't intend to run those during 'operating sessions'<br /><br /></span><strong><span style="font-family:arial;">Layout Size</span></strong><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></p><p><span style="font-family:arial;">9m * 4.5m (29' * 15') approx - not as good as it seems because of the sloping attic roof</span></p><span style="font-family:arial;">Dual level connected by a 3 turn helix with about a 1/48 grade.</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"></span><br /><ul><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Lower level is a folded dogbone giving a double track main line with two stations and staging yards either end (one set of staging yards is complete, the other is currently just a single line)</span></li><br /><br /><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Upper level single track with representations of Portland,Mudgee and either Gulgong or Dunedoo (this may change). The stations in between Portland and Mudgee are representing by a staging yard. I chose Portland because of the cement works (hey I work for the company - what do you expect :-) and the exchange siding workings - should be rather neat, Mudgee because of the fabulous station building let alone the fact that most trains either terminated there or at the least had an engine change, Gulgong or Dunedoo because they represent the area a little bit further up the line.</span></li></ul><p><br /><strong><span style="font-family:arial;">Track</span></strong><br /></p><span style="font-family:arial;"></span><ul><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Peco code 75 flex track</span></li><br /><br /><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Scratchbuilt points (mainly No. 6 for the main line and No. 5 for the yard areas). Points will be controlled by scratchbuilt slow motion point motors. Rail is MicroEngineering code 70, using the rail soldered to PCB sleepers method of point construction.</span></li></ul><p><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Benchwork</strong> </span><br /></p><span style="font-family:arial;"></span><ul><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Lower level is 'L' girder construction using mainly 75 * 25 (3 *1) or 50 * 25 (2 *1) timber</span></li><br /><br /><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Upper level is a cantilevered tabletop construction, I used 75 *25 (3 * 1) maple(meranti?) as I thought it might be stronger than pine. Seems to work OK so far - it's been up for about 6 - 7 years and only 1 cantilevered support has had the glue let go, but I have had to use a threaded rod to support the upper level roughly in the middle of each section - I intend to disguise this using Ray Pilgrim's tree method.</span></li><br /><br /><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Benchtops are 12mm 5ply and the track is laid on 3mm cork roadbed.</span></li></ul><p><br /><strong><span style="font-family:arial;">Control</span></strong><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">DCC using EasyDCC by CVP and wireless (Radio) throttles. I selected this after trying a number of different system on a few layouts as it is the one that felt most comfortable to me, it was also the only one which had a decent radio throttle at the time.</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The lower level does allow for straight 'DC' control via double pole double throw switches</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"></span><br /><strong><span style="font-family:arial;">Track Plans<br /></span></strong><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The plans show the current state of the layout, however the layout is not yet 'runnable' as I still have to make & install most of the pointmotors for the lower level - I hope to have this finalised by Feb/Mar - not sure what year though.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Took me a little while to produce the track plans as I have not used a CAD package before (I used XTrkCad), so a bit of a learning curve was involved - not perfect but good enough to see what I am trying to achieve - guess the time could have been better used in progressing the layout but I enjoyed myself while watching the cricket.</span><br /><br /><em><span style="font-family:arial;">Lower Level</span></em><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /></span><br /></p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1yiv1in8jc6cBaw9hJFfL4aLzuszTlYBUP8-8R2vf-mN1u9BXrppoY5uCGhHc33nHOOgEMWUHWNHZRhcoIqmXATLSvtClMJy10oC4QmM7AKHT_-6VTWBfJfLKi3cevxgf-uKrcNf_pQE/s1600-h/lower+level-3.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285220926868992274" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 190px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1yiv1in8jc6cBaw9hJFfL4aLzuszTlYBUP8-8R2vf-mN1u9BXrppoY5uCGhHc33nHOOgEMWUHWNHZRhcoIqmXATLSvtClMJy10oC4QmM7AKHT_-6VTWBfJfLKi3cevxgf-uKrcNf_pQE/s320/lower+level-3.bmp" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><em>Upper Level</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDDogCDAMYyd4hRgupz2GYbDVNHhXkSqrVnU_QqDZyrHYyYPzf3sRBMM67u1cQLxuvRo_hLGISQG3hIW4oDwfhlHY9Y07e4vttWHp_eixlNUg1P55x05OBKkW3fpF1e35a3E54a9Ck4QQ/s1600-h/BMMdge-3.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285219187720382226" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 190px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDDogCDAMYyd4hRgupz2GYbDVNHhXkSqrVnU_QqDZyrHYyYPzf3sRBMM67u1cQLxuvRo_hLGISQG3hIW4oDwfhlHY9Y07e4vttWHp_eixlNUg1P55x05OBKkW3fpF1e35a3E54a9Ck4QQ/s320/BMMdge-3.bmp" border="0" /></a> </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Well, thats it for now -</span>railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-676623847235518087.post-4923631907883634302008-12-13T16:55:00.000-08:002008-12-13T17:42:46.700-08:00The Story so farAfter watching a few friends blogspots I figured out I may as well have a go at making one for my layout, so here it is.<br /><br />This post is just a brief introduction, I'll have to take some photos & publish them next, and then draw the plans of the layout as it stands so far - it will be a slow process but hopefully will get there eventually.<br /><br />I have the beginnings of a layout in an attic, when I first started it, it was to be based on the South Coast of NSW from Bombo thru to Bombaderry, then I gave a presentation on Cement Traffic in NSW at one of the conventions and as part of my research came across Portland, I then realized this would be a neat little line to model, so I scrapped any ideas I had on the South Coast & started researching the Mudgee line.<br /><br />Some of the following is what I like about Mudgee :<br /><br /><ul><li>The fantastic station building - going to be a lot of fun building that.</li></ul><p><br /></p><ul><li>The cement works @ Portland & their exchange siding and private locos.</li></ul><p><br /></p><ul><li>That Mudge has it's own loco depot and locos where changed there in the era I will be modelling.</li></ul><br /><br />I wanted to make a dual level layout to allow maximum use of the space I have available. A major constraint I have is that the layout is in it's own purpose built room in the attic and thus I have sloping walls to contend with. To start with I made a small module with the two levels and left it at that for a few months so I could get a feels for it, after a few adjustments on the module I started on the main layout benchwork and am pretty happy with the outcome so far.<br /><br /><br />The layout has been under construction for the last 7 years, it is still very much a plywood central at this moment - as mentioned it is a double level layout, the lower level is 1050 mm (3 foot 5 inches) above ground level, the upper level is 1440 mm (4 foot nine inches) above ground level, giving a gap of about 320mm ( 12 inches approx) between the two levels (allowing for the framework). The two levels are connected by a 3 turn helix with about a 1/48 grade.<br /><br />That all for now...railmodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864150319198478937noreply@blogger.com1